Cesare Casadei looked to 1980s opulence à la Chanel and its hedonism à la Gianni Versace. A new cone-shaped heel shape reminiscent of the era, jeweled embellishments and a rainbow python based on a Thierry Mugler dress adorned the designer’s signature sexy sandals, pumps and wedges.
Never one to play subtle, Charlotte Olympia’s resort collection was called Secret Garden — and it was full of ladybugs, bees, daisies and leaf motifs, often paired with a polka-dot or a leopard pattern on the cheeky wedges, platform sandals and flats the designer is known for.
Eddie Borgo’s cruise collection melded the DNA of both his jewelry and bag lines. The signature arc handle of the Colt handbag became hoop earrings, a cuff or an open-front choker with chain tassels. The tassels themselves (also appearing throughout the collection on earrings and bracelets) are reminiscent of the chain strap on Borgo’s shoulder bags. A half-star motif on earrings and a brooch with a rhinestone center were a nod to the 1970s disco scene in New York.
Edie Parker’s big new item for resort, a canvas and suede multi-colored bucket bag that sports the brand’s signature acrylic in a large circular handle almost didn’t make the mix. “I wasn’t sure if we were going to show it, but the buyers loved it and placed orders, so it stays!” said designer Brett Heyman. However, the line does continue to expand the virtually acrylic-free styles it’s introduced in past seasons, such as a crystal embellished mini-crossbody or coated metal clutches. For her characteristic plastic clutches, Heyman revived some motifs from years past —think palm trees, flamingos and toucans — motivated by their popularity in social media circles.
Furla imagines a mix of urban and desert oasis for resort, adding touches of camouflage prints and earthy hues and featuring artisanal touches like laser-cut leathers and wovens to add amped-up texture to shoes and bags. A barrel-shaped cross-body with scalloped edges called the Amazzone launched made its debut, and key bags such as the Metropolis were updated in a micro-leopard print and with floral embroidery
Inspired by vacations with her father in Taos, New Mexico — which included visits with its most famous resident, Georgia O’Keefe — Marin Hopper’s Hayward collection updated styles from fall in new Southwestern colors, like a brown and peach suede combo with a vintage feel. Tooled leather in the brand’s signature silhouettes was unexpectedly chic. Last season’s Fortuny fabric bags, based on tapestries found in the designer’s 70th street home and store, continued in fresh hues and motifs — most noticeably, a mauve elephant.
Jill Haber took inspiration from “Brazilian bombshell” Carmen Miranda with a collection that was heavy on brightly colored raffia and denim, along with embroidery and patches. The materials helped keep the price of the bags down, a key strategy for resort, when purchases may be more for fun than investment.
Newbark updated its line of comfortable, chic slides, mules and loafers adding new fabrications such as python and metallics. Loafers got an upgrade with new hardware, which looked especially sharp in velvet and patent leather combos.
Nicholas Kirkwood explored new ways of using the pearl details that have been his signature ever since his namesake collection launched. He imbedded them within the inside edge of heels; he added new colors to those dotting the perimeter of everything from flat boots to brogues. Kirkwood also updated familiar styles with new details — such as adding the pearls to his classic S sandal.
Paul Andrew looked to Le Corbusier’s curvilinear shapes for his new conical wood heel that has the structure of a wedge, but with a particularly sleek silhouette. He also referenced Mid-Century furniture trends with a footwear group whose heels and uppers were “upholstered” in white shearling. A wedding bouquet sent to a friend inspired a floral photo print on pumps, wedges and flats.
Robert Clergerie updated the Dylan wedge in colorful combos of suede, as in a cobalt blue and a sky blue with a pop of bright coral. Creative Director Roland Mouret also updated several styles of platforms and city sandals with crochet details mixed with suede or denim for a more relaxed outcome.
Rupert Sanderson introduced a new cork platform for resort, paired with embroidered fabrics which the designer said was inspired by a recent trip to Mumbai.
A box of vintage shoe clips, a gift from her grandmother, inspired Sarah Flint’s latest designs. She thought they’d be a perfect accent to her vintage-inspired shoes — with the modern addition of a pocket in between the lining and upper to hide the clasp, a touch the designer says “will make it more comfortable” on her popular Harper and Stella styles. Each pair of shoes comes with two sets of clips, one tortoise shell (for day) and pavé (for night). The designer also collaborated with interior designer Katie Ridder on a chicken wire and feather motif custom print on pumps and sandals
Sophia Webster focused on core product for resort, re-working her classic flats and sandals by introducing several in a tan vachetta leather accented with butterfly-shaped grommets or painted multi-color trim on the edges of bows and straps. She combined patent leather with neon embroidery on platforms and introduced a new butterfly wing motif embossed on a shoulder bag.
During resort, espadrilles — sourced from the Spanish region that invented the style — are Stuart Weitzman’s bread and butter. This year they came bedecked with plenty of color and embellishments (beads, pearls), and also in a braided leather sole in place of the traditional straw. Other key styles included a woven raffia on a flat and van. There was also a sneak peak at bags: large hobos and clutches.
Tabitha Simmons showed several demonstrative platforms for resort – her first effort with this style — and expanded her signature espadrilles with new uppers featuring a rope detail. Along with her seasonal floral print, she did a whimsical hot air balloon print.
Pierre Hardy’s arty mood surfaced in a new chunky Memphis heel that the designer regards as an objet d’art in itself — a black lacquer broken by a graphic colored stripe, or vice versa —as well as a separate storyline that sprays sneaker and footwear styles in a speckled layer of colored paint. Hardy also used Penny Stud metal circles to update classics like pointy leather slippers and flat sandals, while a hybrid newcomer — the Kurt, a suede loafer with a Birkenstock-style sole —paid tribute to Nirvana’s ill-fated frontman Kurt Cobain.