MILAN — Internationalization and innovation were among the key themes at Mido, the three-day international eyewear trade show, which closed here last week.
According to data provided by Anfao, the Italian Optical Goods Manufacturers’ Association, despite the stagnation of the internal market, which in 2012 registered a 4 percent drop in sales compared to 2011, Italian exports of prescription frames and sunglasses grew 11.2 percent to 847 million euros, or $1.1 billion at current exchange, and 5 percent to 1.7 billion euros ($2.2 billion) respectively. Exports to the U.S. increased 11.3 percent, and those to Asian countries jumped 7.1 percent.
Eyewear giants like Luxottica took advantage of the appeal of Italian high-end frames in emerging markets. The Veneto-based company closed 2012 reporting record annual sales and a 20 percent increase in net income. According to Luxottica chief executive officer Andrea Guerra, emerging markets showed a 26 percent sales increase, contributing significantly to the company’s performance in 2012.
At Mido, Luxottica presented new collections for its licensed luxury labels, including Prada, Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry, along with Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani, which this year returned under the eyewear maker’s umbrella.
The Armani labels were previously produced by Safilo, which showcased its latest creations for Dior, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, and also put a focus on its own brands, Carrera and Polaroid.
At Marchon the year started strong, according to president and chief executive officer Claudio Gottardi. “We registered a double-digit growth in these first months.” He added the company’s success has been driven by the licensed high-end brands, including Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and Chloé, and by labels such as Calvin Klein, Lacoste and Nike, which are particularly strong in established as well as in emerging markets. This month Marchon also signed a licensing agreement to make and distribute G-Star’s first eyewear line, which will launch in October.
Allison, which in December completed a financial restructuring, is reorganizing its distribution network and after a three-year hiatus is relaunching its business in the U.S. and Canada. According to ceo Jacopo Romano, the company, which counts Asia as its main market, is also finalizing a production and distribution partnership in South America.
“Our first goal is to bring the EBITDA [earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization] up 20 percent,” said Romano.
At Mido, the company, which makes eyewear collections for fashion brands including Missoni, Moschino and Vivienne Westwood, unveiled its first collection for denim label Replay and launched two house brands, the young and casual Opposite and the more classic and sophisticated Hally & Son.
Allison also recently formed a joint venture with Moncler to launch the Moncler Lunettes eyewear line, which will be sold at the company’s boutiques and selected international opticians starting this spring. The first collection includes 21 styles, featuring classic shapes combining acetate and metal.
Berlin-based high-end Mykita, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, unveiled the fruits of its collaboration with Paris-based designer Damir Doma.
“We brought together the creative DNA of both companies,” said Mykita ceo and creative director Moritz Krueger, adding that the line will be available at the Damir Doma boutique in Paris, in luxury fashion stores and in about 800 high-end optical stores globally in the next couple of years.
Mykita generated sales of 18 million euros, or $23.4 million, in 2012. It counts the U.S. and Canada as its main markets, followed by France, Germany and Italy. “In 2012 we also increased our business in the Middle East and Eastern Europe,” Krueger said.
At Mido it launched a collection of seven unisex prescription frames in Mylon, a lightweight, comfortable material developed and patented by the German label in 2011.
Italia Independent also put the focus on prescription eyewear. The company announced its partnership with French lens manufacturer Essilor, which will enable the hip eyewear brand to offer professional ophthalmic services at its flagships.
“Our goal is to develop our business of prescription frames [by] trying to find a strategy to encourage our customers to change their frames more frequently,” said Italia Independent cofounder and managing director Giovanni Accongiagioco. For that reason, the brand is introducing a tailor-made service at its flagships, allowing clients to customize their glasses using a wide range of styles, shapes and colors.
According to ceo Andrea Tessitore, Italia Independent is currently concentrating on international markets. Two headquarters have opened in Tokyo and Miami, where the brand has filmed the new chapter of its “Be Independent. Everywhere” video saga, as well as commercial offices in Dubai, Paris and Barcelona. On the home front, it is opening two flagships in Italy in April, along with a boutique in Milan by the end of the year.
To satisfy the need of different markets and customer targets, Italia Independent has expanded its offering with products like I-Teen for kids aged eight to 14 and I-Sport, the company’s first line focused on sports. This range includes frames made with SuperFlex, an extremely flexible and durable material. The fair also saw the debut of the oversized I-Ultra, which is lightweight and virtually indestructible.
Mido also hosted the relaunch of storied French sunglasses manufacturer Vuarnet. The company, which was acquired by Alain Mikli International in 2009, in January came under the direct control of London-based private equity fund Neo Capital, which last November sold its 47 percent stake in Alain Mikli to Luxottica.
“We want to relaunch this brand — which in the Eighties was the second-most-distributed eyewear label in the world — exalting its core values and making something that’s very functional look cool and sexy,” said Vuarnet ceo Stefano Fabris, revealing that the company aims to double its business within two years.
Vuarnet produces its high-tech lenses in its factory outside Paris. It’s developing more up-to-date unisex styles, respecting the company’s sport-oriented heritage. They include the VL1302 and VL303 cellulose acetate designs, which are available in a black or blue version embellished with the French flag on the upper part of the temples, along with VL 0113, a reissue of one of Vuarnet’s most iconic frames. All the sunglasses, which are sold at prices ranging between 150 and 240 euros ($195 and $312), come with specific mineral lenses that include Citylynx, which reduces the intensity of city lights, and Skilynx, which cuts glare and reflection and increases perception of relief and depth of vision.
At Etnia Barcelona, founder and creative director David Pellicer said business has been “going extremely well. I think our clients appreciate that we have increased the quality while keeping our price points as low as possible.”
Pellicer added that sales have grown 30 percent annually for a number of years. The brand has just introduced Paris-Tokyo, its first sunglasses collection consisting of three unisex styles. To boost business and international recognition, Etnia is opening a flagship in Barcelona and collaborating with international artists to introduce a wide range of colors and develop exclusive limited-edition eyewear collections.
In the pavilion dedicated to design-oriented brands, Berlin-based Kuboraum made its debut with mask-inspired quirky unisex glasses featuring geometrical shapes. They include Ltd Burnt, a range of acetate frames burned by hand through a complicated process that makes each pair unique.
Italian W-eye showcased lightweight, high-tech frames, realized by combining seven layers of wood with two of aluminum.
Interior designer Veronika Wildgruber played with shapes, blending two different silhouettes into sophisticated acetate or metallic frames. Wildgruber’s line is produced by French manufacturer Jacques Durand.
Durand also produces the collections of Paris-based, Ireland-born designer Alyson Magee, who unveiled at Mido a small collection of feminine acetate frames embellished with subtle, ironic details.
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For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews