The silver-dot triangles popping up on the temples of sunglasses around Manhattan may appear to be a new logo, but their geometric, low-profile look can be deceiving. And attached to more than one brand.
The triangles signal the presence of a vintage-style, metal hinge known for its strength that’s been adopted by a handful of premium eyewear brands, like Oliver Goldsmith, Blinde and Beausoleil, for reasons ranging from the aesthetic to the technical.
Originally popular in the Fifties, the hinge — seven barrels riveted to a frame’s temples by six pins in a plate — has staged a comeback long after people had tired of the once-common look. The rivets go through to the outside of the frames and form the three-dot triangles visible to passersby. “I just love the chunky, heavy quality of these hinges,” Claire Goldsmith, director of Oliver Goldsmith, said. “It’s a stylistic component. Sadly, there is no way to protect the use of these hinges, as they are a component rather than a logo or a brand marque.”
With vintage eyewear staging a comeback in the past few years, “most of what you’re seeing around Manhattan [bearing the three-dot triangles] is probably vintage,” said Troy Schmidt, president and creative director of Optical Shop International, a Culver City, Calif., firm, which holds the international license for Blinde. “A lot of celebrities are wearing vintage frames.”
Blinde itself claims celebrities such as Sharon Stone, Leonardo DiCaprio, Madonna and Brad Pitt as customers of the brand begun in 1997. Oliver Goldsmith, relaunched in 2005 after 20 years of inactivity, was popular in the mid-20th century with stars including Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Michael Caine and John Lennon.
These days, Blinde is incorporating the barrel-and-pin hinge into most of its frames, with an eye to artisanal craftsmanship and a strength greater than that provided by the pinless hinges and spring hinges predominant today, Schmidt explained. Both Blinde and Oliver Goldsmith frames are hand-made in Japan.
Since its relaunch, Oliver Goldsmith has been re-creating its original styles from the Fifties, Sixties, Seventies and Eighties “exactly as they were made in their original day,” noted Goldsmith, great-granddaughter of Philip Oliver Goldsmith, who founded the London-based company in 1926.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion