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Luxury and unique details remain a priority for accessories brands for spring. Metal accents, graphic patterns and pops of color added a new twist to classic footwear and roomy, soft bags. Here, a roundup of the men’s accessories presentations during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
Sandals were key for Giuseppe Zanotti, who opted for a minimal, clean design in supple leathers accented with brass hardware and naillike studs. Super-slim ankle boots were either in washed calfskin or split leathers to be worn with jeans or in suede covered with crystals for evening.
Church’s is now entering the realm of hyper-luxury with its new Church’s Crown Collection for spring, spanning about 10 models including oxfords, monk straps and derby shoes. The styles are all manufactured in the company’s factory in Northampton, England, using artisanal techniques. Shoes feature embedded stitches, are decorated with handmade broguing and are all dyed by hand. The collection will be available only at select Church’s flagships, as well as in a limited number of specialty stores.
The Crown collection will cost about 30 percent more than the main collection, with the average retail price north of 1,000 euros, or $1,360 at current exchange.
Fratelli Rossetti approached spring with a sporty, urban attitude expanding its casual footwear offering. The Brera Sport, a tassel slip-on, and the Hobo, a laceless style combining the silhouettes of a derby and an oxford, were offered in 20 different color variations, spanning from polished leather in vibrant tones of turquoise, orange and green to options in exotic skins.
Car Shoe focused on its classic driving shoe for spring, offering it in calf with a rubberized finish in blue, gray and brown with an opaque effect. Sheer pebbles on the soles that contrast with the upper added a modern touch to the moccasin. The look was also updated by camouflage patterns in orange, green, red or aqua colors.
Santoni re-created checkerboards in different color variations on a range of lace-ups, while monk straps were shown in perforated suede. To complete the offering, the brand delivered a sporty range, including super-soft leather slip-ons and classic, chic sneakers in fresh solid colors.
Functional means luxurious at Valextra. Design director Álvaro González created softer briefcases, totes and shopping bags with practical pockets, from laptop to external ones, snap closures with locks and extendable handles. Colors ranged from clay and petroleum to Havana and lake green.
The Cabina travel bag revisited the gym bag with a side zip and lateral pinionlike clasp closures, which also can be used as safety locks. The Metropoli shopping bag comes in calfskin or a new sharkskin version.
The new Cortina backpack, the brand’s first, is made in soft calfskin with comfortable handles and an adjustable shoulder strap allowing it to be worn across the body. The backpack opens at the top as well, transforming it into a sailor bag with internal mesh pockets to store sneakers, for example.
For spring, Valextra expanded the collection with small leather goods including slim geometric wallets, magnetic money clips and a collection of new, slim leather bracelets with sayings like “You Are the Best” and “I Love You” printed inside.
Among the standouts at Sergio Rossi were retro shapes, 3-D graphic patterns and a technical fabric with a raffia effect on classic derby shoes, slippers and monk straps. Angelo Ruggeri, collections and design director, worked with clean lines enhanced by the materials, the finishings and the black-and-white color palette. Ruggeri opted for more elongated silhouettes for evening. Case in point: a black-and-white patent oxford embellished by a garterlike accessory.
Inspired by an imaginary road trip from Tuscany to Las Vegas, Alberto Moretti designed a collection rooted in the label’s signature dandyish style. Suede slippers were decorated with a silk bow printed with small flowers, while a soft velvet loafer with tassels showed a bold tropical motif. A sportier offering included a white, calf-leather high-top sneaker embellished with the image of a joker, an homage to Sin City.
TRENDING IN MILAN
• Fluid tailoring
• Denim and faux denim
• Stripes, nautical and graphic patterns
• Retro — from the Fifties through the Nineties
• Luxe loungewear
• Carrot pleated pants — wide at the top, narrow at the bottom
• Outerwear for spring — from voluminous trenches to cropped suede jackets
• A tropical vibe
• Soft bags
• Chunky sandals
• Double-breasted jackets in longer silhouettes
• Streetwear-style layering
• Round sunglasses