Though the sculptures of Constantin Brâncuși are clean, modern and composed of simple lines, the 20th-century Romanian-born artist's work was actually quite complex in its creation. The same could be said of Paul Andrew's shoe designs.The designer was inspired after he happened upon the Paris-based artist’s atelier, still left intact, after catching an exhibition at the Centre Pompidou. But the influence goes beyond the style of the artwork. The artist was relentless in perfecting his shapes before casting in brass, a process similar to what Andrew uses when creating shoe molds. “I love those two parallels and the connection to his work and the process of shoemaking,” Andrew said.[caption id="attachment_10789609" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Paul's Andrew's "ode to Brancusi" pump.[/caption]He also referenced key materials favored by Brâncuși — African wood, brass and marble — in the shoes. To make the point clear, Andrew displayed his shoes on tiered sculpture pedestals created from wood, brass, marble and cement.The most dramatic shoe, which Andrew called an ode to the artist, was a “half-d’orsay,” an asymmetric pump with toe-cleavage vamp in metallic mirror leather with the new “Maiastra” heel, named after a famous Brâncuși sculpture. The heel was cast in brass, yet overall, the shoe had a golden effect. If the Oscar statuette were a shoe, this would be it.Andrew also built upon the Carrera marble mood created in pre-fall, expanding the theme to include contrasting marble patterns in classic white on the uppers and a black nero portoro heel and inner shoe lining, for instance. A group of rich, triple-dyed suede pointy-toe mules came in flat and stiletto heights, and has all the markings of a future house classic. Another highlight was a simple bronze sandal with hand-applied black feathers across the toe — which referenced the “pigeon problem” in the open-air section of Brâncuși’s studio.Besides his own collection, Andrew is about to present his first shoe collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, where he was named design director for footwear. Juggling the responsibilities of two brands can be a challenge, but Andrew seems to be handling it deftly thus far. "I’ve been designing shoes for 18 years and even when I worked for Donna [Karan] or Calvin [Klein], I was overseeing different categories, so I am quite used to balancing it all,” he said as the presentation was winding down. The event may have been ending, but Andrew is just getting started.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion