A basic, unadorned shoe has virtually no reason to exist anymore. These days, it’s all about footwear with notice-me shelf appeal — extra buckles and wrapping straps, exposed zippers, ruffles, pleating, topstitching, earthy polished stones and flat studs. Even stretch-fit shoes, after several strong seasons, are trending downward because they curl up and don’t display decorative detail well, said several vendors planning to show at WWDMAGIC.
“The trend is overembellishment,” said Sheena
Parks, marketing director for El Segundo, Calif.-based Matisse Footwear. “Anything we can sew onto an upper, we’re using.”
The 10-year-old firm will bring three labels to the show: Matisse, at $27 to $64 wholesale; Coconuts, at $22 to $32, and The Mix, a new offering that was a Nordstrom exclusive in its first season, at $25 to $45.
In terms of color, blues and purples are expected to be strong for spring as well as dusty neutrals (tans, mushroom taupes, pale greens and rose beige). Metallics have become a staple in the customer’s wardrobe and are expected to run through spring.
Based on trend-scouting trips to Europe, vendors believe gladiators and peep-toe booties will continue as a consumer favorite.
Moreno Habif, president of Miami-based More Shoes, makers of the Enigma label, is offering gladiators with colorful, braided straps and contrast stitching. He’s also seen strong interest in double platform shoes, a look popularized by high-end label Giuseppe Zanotti.
Report Shoes, based in Bellevue, Wash., also is bullish on platform sandals, as well as high-drama, over-the-knee boots.
“Customers have been responding well to ruffles, prints and anything with hardware on it,” said Jeff Powers, Report’s senior vice president.
Chinese Laundry, which will bring its flagship label and three subbrands to the expo, is seeing block heels, espadrilles, stitching accents and burnished leathers fare well. The company will test shoes with macramé uppers for its CL by Laundry label for spring, said brand president Tsering Namgyal.
Flojos, in Thousand Oaks, Calif., also is seeing continued Seventies influences. The company feels strongly about its peace-sign Harmony flip-flops as well as animal exotics (boa, jaguar and zebra), said marketing executive Tiffany Eil.
Stewart Cohen, national account manager for Dreams, says the affordable junior brand will test huaraches alongside gladiators and peep-toe styles.
Along with trends, the City of Industry, Calif.-based company is focused on finishing details, such as rolled edges to hide seams, which aims to appeal to customers trading down from department stores.
“Our new designer, Jo Mortellaro, is traveling around the world to get new ideas about how to make our shoes look like a much more elevated brand,” Cohen said.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)