After a decade as creative director at Roger Vivier, Bruno Frisoni still has plenty of rich house history to explore. For fall, he made a play on the buckle following a visit to a Vienna museum, where works by Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann inspired him to overlap rectangle shapes on a series of shoes, bags and jewelry.
Frisoni also channeled the mystique of Catherine Deneuve in the film “Belle de Jour” with the Belle Vivier pump and stretch-leather thigh-high boot. The house is recognized as having pioneered stretch-vinyl boots — Brigitte Bardot memorably wore them as she posed atop a motorcycle in 1967 — and the designer’s update featured a new trumpet-shaped heel. He further refined the buckle and constructed the boot so it appeared to be a pump with a leather stocking leg.
To appeal to a younger customer, Frisoni introduced a crossbody pouch to his Prismick line. Available with fringe or studs, it came about after a visit to a Parisian disco with a friend who was wearing a diminutive bag. “It was important to address the new contemporary girl and her style,” he said. “We had to update the Vivier woman. We have to face it, no? Something changed in the fashion world and how we dress and live.”
A more youthful vibe was also evident in what Frisoni called his “T-shirt line,” a group of shoes and bags printed with bold stripes and dripping paint à la Jackson Pollock, as well as shearling ballerinas and rubber-soled boots designed for urban environments in winter.