Italian accessories brands paid homage to tradition and artisanal craftsmanship, while managing to push the boundaries with innovative techniques, touches of color — from red to purple — and quirky combinations of materials and hides.
“We are specialists in the treatment of leather,” remarked Diego Della Valle, Tod’s chairman and chief executive officer, highlighting the company’s distinctive feature. And from this axiom, Tod’s reworked its timeless Winter Gommino in supple variations of brushed suede and vintage calfskin or ponyskin in sand, stone, honey and chocolate hues. In tune with a more formal trend, the brand showed a black patent loafer with a wedged rubber sole in lace-up and slip-on versions. IPad cases in a range of hides, including crocodile and python, and luxurious shearling jackets also were hits among the functional range of products.
Elsewhere in the Tod’s stable, Hogan’s collection was dubbed “Future Roots,” and was just that: a combination of traditional and artisan treatments and high-tech innovation, said group vice president Andrea Della Valle.
The brand, controlled by Tod’s SpA, showed sneakers crafted using a technique where the leather that makes up the upper is lined on the reverse side then turned inside out and hammered out hiding the stitching. “It’s informal and modern, clean and essential, in sync with Hogan’s urban-chic tradition,” said Della Valle.
At Sergio Rossi, creative director Francesco Russo played off the house’s tradition, while selectively adding more contemporary touches. Mixed-media pieces, as in the oxfords with camouflage-printed pony inserts were standouts, as were the gold-coated calfskin moccasins.
Leather oxfords also were closed with hooks borrowed from trekking gear, showing an unusual rubber quarter stiffener. And shearling-lined classic suede booties were accented with hand-stitched toecaps.
Valextra introduced its calfskin cover for BlackBerry’s PlayBook in colors such as smoky London gray, royal blue, ocher and the brand’s signature pergamena white. “This is a practical object, yet it’s luxurious, high quality and stylish,” said chairman and ceo Emanuele Carminati Molina. “Here is a synergy between two brands that share the same vision and combine functionality and creativity.”
Church’s put a new spin on its classic oxford brogue and the focus is on the sole made with scraps of discarded hides, which has a polychrome effect. In suede, often treated to look aged, it allows a less formal look.
Fratelli Rossetti president Diego Rossetti said customers are “returning to companies that have a specific know-how.” Building on that strength, the firm is rejuvenating its product offer with the help of designer George Esquivel. Hence, the use of more color, such as loafers in blue and red; textures that appear “not so perfect,” and pumps and moccasins put in washing machines to achieve a used look, said Esquivel. “There is more playfulness to the collection. Shoes don’t have to be so serious,” he said.
Drawing inspiration from the late Fifties and Tom Ford’s “A Single Man,” Furla owner and chairman Giovanna Furlanetto said the collection is about “versatility.” Structured and linear ostrich-printed leather folder cases take center stage in orange and ocher, but also more basic sand and gray hues. Totes in crocodile-print leather or ponyskin combined with napa add a contemporary edge to the collection.
With Prince William’s pending nuptials in mind, designer Cesare Paciotti looked to the British tradition for inspiration, but also to the Eighties’ rockabilly look. Hence, the collection’s dichotomy ranged from colorful tricot Derby shoes to black-studded loafers.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye