Italian accessories brands paid homage to tradition and artisanal craftsmanship, while managing to push the boundaries with innovative techniques, touches of color — from red to purple — and quirky combinations of materials and hides.
“We are specialists in the treatment of leather,” remarked Diego Della Valle, Tod’s chairman and chief executive officer, highlighting the company’s distinctive feature. And from this axiom, Tod’s reworked its timeless Winter Gommino in supple variations of brushed suede and vintage calfskin or ponyskin in sand, stone, honey and chocolate hues. In tune with a more formal trend, the brand showed a black patent loafer with a wedged rubber sole in lace-up and slip-on versions. IPad cases in a range of hides, including crocodile and python, and luxurious shearling jackets also were hits among the functional range of products.
Elsewhere in the Tod’s stable, Hogan’s collection was dubbed “Future Roots,” and was just that: a combination of traditional and artisan treatments and high-tech innovation, said group vice president Andrea Della Valle.
The brand, controlled by Tod’s SpA, showed sneakers crafted using a technique where the leather that makes up the upper is lined on the reverse side then turned inside out and hammered out hiding the stitching. “It’s informal and modern, clean and essential, in sync with Hogan’s urban-chic tradition,” said Della Valle.
At Sergio Rossi, creative director Francesco Russo played off the house’s tradition, while selectively adding more contemporary touches. Mixed-media pieces, as in the oxfords with camouflage-printed pony inserts were standouts, as were the gold-coated calfskin moccasins.
Leather oxfords also were closed with hooks borrowed from trekking gear, showing an unusual rubber quarter stiffener. And shearling-lined classic suede booties were accented with hand-stitched toecaps.
Valextra introduced its calfskin cover for BlackBerry’s PlayBook in colors such as smoky London gray, royal blue, ocher and the brand’s signature pergamena white. “This is a practical object, yet it’s luxurious, high quality and stylish,” said chairman and ceo Emanuele Carminati Molina. “Here is a synergy between two brands that share the same vision and combine functionality and creativity.”
Church’s put a new spin on its classic oxford brogue and the focus is on the sole made with scraps of discarded hides, which has a polychrome effect. In suede, often treated to look aged, it allows a less formal look.
Fratelli Rossetti president Diego Rossetti said customers are “returning to companies that have a specific know-how.” Building on that strength, the firm is rejuvenating its product offer with the help of designer George Esquivel. Hence, the use of more color, such as loafers in blue and red; textures that appear “not so perfect,” and pumps and moccasins put in washing machines to achieve a used look, said Esquivel. “There is more playfulness to the collection. Shoes don’t have to be so serious,” he said.
Drawing inspiration from the late Fifties and Tom Ford’s “A Single Man,” Furla owner and chairman Giovanna Furlanetto said the collection is about “versatility.” Structured and linear ostrich-printed leather folder cases take center stage in orange and ocher, but also more basic sand and gray hues. Totes in crocodile-print leather or ponyskin combined with napa add a contemporary edge to the collection.
With Prince William’s pending nuptials in mind, designer Cesare Paciotti looked to the British tradition for inspiration, but also to the Eighties’ rockabilly look. Hence, the collection’s dichotomy ranged from colorful tricot Derby shoes to black-studded loafers.
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For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
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Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)