It all started with that fashionable confidante, the hairdresser.
Last fall, Ralph Rucci was having his hair cut at Frédéric Fekkai when his stylist, Hervé Merlino, began talking about his best friend, bag designer Leonello Borghi. Rucci and Borghi, who are fans of one another, met at Borghi’s studio, which happened to be plastered with photos from Rucci’s Chado Ralph Rucci runway shows. Pleased to find a like-minded accessories designer, Rucci promptly started working with Borghi on a line of bags for fall. “[Borghi is] so obsessed with different types of cuts and things that I work on, so it was really a [collaboration] that was meant to happen,” Rucci says.
Borghi, in fact, whipped up the sketches for the collection within 10 days of their meeting, inspired, he says, by the clean lines of Rucci’s dresses. “I think Ralph’s aesthetic and my know-how designing bags were merged,” says Borghi, “and everyone was surprised by how easily that happened.”
The seven-piece collection of architectural silhouettes, called Chado Ralph Rucci by Leonello Borghi, is luxed up with horsehair, metallic mesh and alligator. Developing the skins at a New Zealand tannery — including a matte deerskin — the designers hit upon shapes such as a weekender, hobo and an evening bag, all of which will be sold at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue (retail prices range from $500 to $3,000, though the box calf and horsehair weekender will go for a cool $7,000). “There’s a ceremonial kind of aspect to [the line], which for me is very Chado,” explains Borghi, who worked on Giorgio Armani’s inaugural accessories collection in 1999 before launching his own namesake line in 2001. To Borghi, the term “ceremonial” means that the bags are simple — no tricky hardware or flashy embellishments.
While Rucci has collaborated with labels such as Carlos Falchi and Lambertson Truex, this is the first accessories collection he’s wholesaling, and it will be a continuing venture, in part because of the similarity in the designers’ aesthetics. Rucci says the horsehair and mesh pieces in particular reflect the look of his fall show, which is exactly the kind of mirroring he and Borghi hope to maintain in future seasons. “The line has to have a relationship to the clothes, so that there’s a continuity for the retailer,” he says, noting that the collection’s commercial value — despite its high sticker price — is foremost on his mind. “We have to build in ways in which [retailers] can merchandise the bags for the most sales potential.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)