For Carlos Falchi, the second time around is in the bag.
Two years after the Brazilian designer launched a contemporary collection with sourcing firm Li & Fung that failed to take off, Falchi is at it again, this time with new partner L & Leung, which also produces handbags for brands that include Iris by Iris Apfel, Carlos by Carlos Santana and Emma Fox.
The former Falchi by Falchi contemporary line of bags, shoes and jewelry had one shipment to Macy’s for its Brazil promotion. Falchi had also tapped Li & Fung to take on production and distribution for his main “couture” collection. “The Macy’s promotion did well at retail, but when it came to production, we both realized that small U.S. production was not their niche and my couture line has always been made in the U.S.,” said Falchi, who also sells his moderately priced Chi by Falchi brand of bags, jackets, watches and hats exclusively on HSN.
For Falchi’s second go at contemporary, he’s focusing exclusively on bags with leather and calf hair looks that mimic his main collection’s concepts (even the brand name is the same) but with prices that retail from $228 for a cross-body camera style to $348 for a North/South tote, capping out at $598 for an oversize calf hair bag. L & Leung president Lisa Nunziata said her goal is to create a collection that’s strong on brand, leather and function. When asked if she was concerned that customers might confuse the main line and the contemporary one, she replied, “We don’t want them to know the difference.”
Design director Steve Quiles, formerly of Lucky Brand, said the contemporary line’s interest is in the details, from the adjustable buckle on the Y-shaped shoulder straps of a cross-body style to an appliqué in a chevron pattern on a crescent-shaped hobo. A python print, a croc embossment and a cobra pattern burnout have a similar exotic look of the main collection. All the leathers are sourced in Brazil, with the bags produced in China.
The line makes its debut in market this week and is slated to hit retail for a May-June transitional delivery.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast