NEW YORK — New designers and first-time vendors shined at the May trade shows.
At Accessories the Show, held May 4 to 6 at the Javits Center here, Tel Aviv-based designer Avigail Adam stood out with her botanical garden-themed booth and ethereal Greek-inspired headpieces. “It’s going really great — surprisingly well,” said Adam. “I got an order today from the Getty Museum.”
Adam explained the inspiration behind her signature piece, a half-crown Greek goddess headband, done in various leaf motifs. “I have a degree in archaeology,” she said. “I studied classical times, Greek, Roman, Egypt.” Adam’s headpieces are created in Tel Aviv, with some soldering techniques done in New York, and retail starting at $30.
Despite being based in Brooklyn, Enrique Muthuan was also making his first appearance at the show. “The morning is always slow, so I’m not worried,” he said. With wholesale prices on the higher end of the sales spectrum (wholesale prices start at $105), sales had been slow to build, with buyer interest perking up post-lunch. “They like everything we have,” said Muthuan, noting that interest had been particularly high towards long, beaded necklaces meant to be layered.
Over at Pier 92, ENK’s Accessorie Circuit, held May 5 to 7, offered new designers space in the centrally located “Fresh” section. Among the first-time vendors was Beau & Ro, a New York-based line of convertible clutches, launched by designer Sara Rossi in December 2013. “So many people have been sending in photos of where they’re wearing them,” said Rossi of the fanny pack-esque bags. “It’s become a little bit of the essence of the brand.”
Rossi started the line with the intention of creating the perfect convenient bag for music festivals, such as Coachella. The response, however, has launched the pieces into unexpected territories.
“New moms are loving them,” said Rossi. “I had my biggest order from these sports stores in Dallas and Austin. Two buyers from a pro shop just stopped by and were like, ‘Oh, this is perfect for golf.’”
Phyllis + Rosie, a New York-based jewelry line launched in February, saw incredible response within their first 24 hours on the trade-show scene. “Free People came over and were like, ‘Want to do a partnership?’ So that’s mind blowing,” said designer Alana Blank. “We had a Vancouver conglomerate make a $20,000 order immediately,” added Rachel Lavipour, chief operating officer. “We’re freaking out.” The duo had seen widespread interest in their adjustable cuffs. “We’re doing a hammered metals look, but not in a craft way,” explained Blank. “It’s artistic and distinct.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion