It started in New York with Marc Jacobs, who accessorized each of his 54 fall exits with an exaggerated fur hat, and ended in Paris with the designer’s parade of extra-large toppers at Louis Vuitton. In between, hats made a significant statement on many runways, from Donna Karan, who drove home her men’s wear theme with small fedoras, to Giorgio Armani, whose models turned their heads mid-runway to draw attention to their trilbies.
Fashion is clearly having a hat moment, but can the trend make the leap from runway to reality? For Jacobs, it’s a no-brainer. “As we’ve done hats many seasons before with Stephen Jones, we’ve seen that the more exaggerated and statement hats we do, the more women want to own them and wear them,” he says. “As with all our accessories, it’s the statement pieces that our customers want.”
His fall hat lineup will be sold at all Marc Jacobs collection stores, including other retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, which picked up a selection for its fur departments. Saks’ senior fashion director Colleen Sherin believes that fashion’s newfound love for the category will help drive the business. “They will be editorialized in fall fashion magazines, which will bring more awareness to the category as a whole,” she says. “And it may make people think twice about hats being not just knit caps but also these amazing fur options.”
Or red-fringed bowlers, for that matter. Jason Wu tapped Paris-based Maison Michel to make said hats for his fall collection, which was inspired by the Chinese Qing dynasty. “I think there is a particularly dressed-up moment happening in fashion right now, and hats seem like the perfect accessory for the look,” Wu says. “It is about being put together from head to toe.”
Milliner Eugenia Kim, meanwhile, looked to the Art Deco movement and film noir for her latest lineup, which includes wide-brimmed fedoras and cloches as well as a mini fedora. “There is a huge shift happening from the casual luxe styles that have been so prevalent recently to a more intentional, feminine way of dressing, and hats really help encourage the total look,” says Kim.
Long ago a mandatory accessory for women, hats as a category has been on the decline at least since the Second Vatican Council (1962 to 1965), when hats became no longer mandatory in Catholic churches. With society’s continued casualization, they have since been largely sequestered to special occasions, but if there was ever a moment that seemed right for the old staple, it could be now.
Brooke Jaffe, Bloomingdale’s fashion director of shoes, handbags and fashion accessories, says last year’s royal nuptials and its full display of hats, “was the beginning of a cultural movement, with the eyes adjusting to it looking right again.” She points to “Downton Abbey” and this summer’s Queen’s Jubilee as other “outlets of fantasy dressing” that might make hats work. That said, Bloomingdale’s did not increase its fall buy compared to last year, but Jaffe notes that this season features a greater fashion-driven assortment of hats from designers such as Eric Javits, Helen Kaminski, Genie by Eugenia Kim, Kate Spade and Helene Berman.
Neiman Marcus senior vice president and fashion director Ken Downing also is noting a renewed interest in hats due in part to fashion’s current “dressed-up and polished way of dressing,” but, like Jaffe, he isn’t fully buying into the trend just yet. “Are we ordering more hats at Neiman Marcus? Not necessarily. It’s very specific to a woman who enjoys wearing a hat.”
On that note, Downing added one important point: “The hairdresser is the modern-day milliner for women. Putting a hat on is not something we see many women changing to.”
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)