At first it was all about gaining attention — and access.
When Federica Moretti first moved to New York from Milan in 2004, she started designing quirky headwear, hoping that her edgy look would gain her access into hot clubs such as Avalon and B Bar.
Over the past few years, this pastime has morphed into a full-time job for the 25-year-old designer. Moretti, who has a background in photography and the visual arts, initially created hats for the runway shows of Moschino, Mila Schön and Giuliano Fujiwara, and two years ago struck out with a line called Federica Moretti Handmade. In January, for the first time, she showcased her wares at the Pitti W trade show in Florence.
Moretti likes to tweak classic staples, such as top hats, berets and bowler styles, with modern, extravagant twists. The results include bowlers sliced in half, voluminous berets and superwide-brimmed fedoras. She works with anything from lapin to cashmere to felted wool, adorning each one-of-a-kind hat with brightly colored contrasting linings.
“Each collection is unique and each hat, regardless of the style, features personalized, hand-finished details,” Moretti says.
The color palette runs from earth tones to icy grays with flashes of ruby red and turquoise. Prices range from 60 euros, or $76 at current exchange, for a cashmere bonnet to 300 euros, or $383, for a rabbit version.
In the U.S., Moretti’s line is carried exclusively by Barneys New York.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast