The old hat is new again, thanks to a handful of talented milliners.
ALBERTUS SWANEPOEL The South African native, now designing out of a studio in New York’s Washington Heights, has collaborated for fall with a slew of houses including Carolina Herrera (for whom he created sharp, featherfestooned caps), Tuleh (above), Peter Som, Nathan Jenden, Costello Tagliapietra, Erin Fetherston and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
IRENE BUSSEMAKER With her namesake label already sold in boutiques throughout Europe, the Netherlands’ Irene Bussemaker has created two new hat lines: Dareable and Wearable. The former features unorthodox pieces such as an intricate cap sprouting leather and arrowhead feathers.
JENNIFER BEHR A favorite of chic brides and the younger set—one of her headbands popped up on Gossip Girl—Jennifer Behr’s molded berets (below) turned editors’ heads at Diane von Furstenberg’s fall show.
JUSTIN SMITH This year Justin Smith, a graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, introduced his first solo collection, a jaunty mix of delicate caps, fedoras and top hats incorporating materials from rabbit fur to osprey feathers.
LOLA New York–based designer Lola Ehrlich crafted slouchy berets and wrinkled hats in autumnal colors such as brown and russet for the runways of Donna Karan (below), Vera Wang and Jill Stuart.
MISA HARADA London-based Misa Harada, in business since 1994, came up with the headpieces for Yohji Yamamoto’s spring show. She also does commissions for musical acts including Scissor Sisters and the Rolling Stones. (Fun fact: She designed Jennifer Aniston’s wedding veil.)
NOEL STEWART Since his first collection was picked up by Barneys New York in early 2003, Noel Stewart has made a name for himself crafting sculptural hats in geometric shapes, a few of which Kylie Minogue donned for her recent Showgirl tour.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion