PARIS — In a sign of the times, bracelets sporting uplifting symbols or messages were among key items in the spring collections presented at the accessories and jewelry trade shows, Premiere Classe and Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca. The events ran Sept. 3 to 6 and Sept. 2 to 5, respectively, at the Portes de Versailles here.
Visitor numbers at Premiere Classe and sister apparel show Who’s Next increased 6 percent to 48,778 versus the equivalent session in 2010. Foreign buyers represented 32 percent of total visitors, versus 34 percent last September. The shows saw an 11 percent uptick in French visitors; however, the number of German and U.S. buyers declined significantly, by 33.5 percent and 28.2 percent, respectively.
Buyers lauded the salons’ strong offer of creative yet commercially safe product.
“The challenge is not being too scared of trialing things but on the flip side remaining commercial,” said Darren Giffins, a buyer for Bentalls, a department store focusing on premium fashion brands which has stores in Kingston and Bracknell in England. His buyer colleague Sarah Jackson said she saw a lot of ultrafine jewelry lines at the shows and friendship bracelets galore.
Among other general trends, key materials for bags included leather, canvas, cork and basket. Slouchy hobo shapes were strong, in both brights and neutrals. For jewelry, nature was a key theme, from animal-inspired charms and motifs to organic materials.
Clélia Moretton, owner of Paris concept store Dalia and Rose, lauded Swedish designer Hanna Wallmark’s range of handmade necklaces, bracelets and rings made from reindeer leather embroidered with pewter thread. The collection is inspired by indigenous Saamis reindeer breeders from Northern Scandinavia. Retail prices range from 29 to 220 euros, or about $40 to $290.
Gabi Baumann, a buyer for Switzerland’s largest luxury multibrand retailer, Bon Génie-Grieder, which operates 84 stores, predicts that neon will be big for spring across categories. She particularly liked Maison Bonnet’s leather belts with neon accents.
Certain buyers said designers were being too rigid on prices, considering the economic context.
“It’s tough negotiating, you have to have 15 calculators out. It’s a question of selecting ultraunique product that justifies the high price,” said Mariana Lima, a buyer for Hype Logistics, a buying office for a number of multi-brand stores in Brazil.
Meanwhile, Cyril Meunier, president of French leather goods brand Loxwood, said: “We sense that multibrand stores are really affected by the economic downturn.”
With jewelry brands struggling to absorb sharp increases on precious metals and certain gems, buyers observed price hikes on jewelry collections by up to 30 percent.
“They’re using smaller diamonds and ultrafine lighter designs,” said Camille Nato, owner of the eponymous multibrand boutique in Paris.
“It’s terrible. We’re used to the gold increases but now the same thing is happening with high-quality diamonds. I think the whole jewelry world will change now, people are beginning to change the materials they work with,” commented Paris-based designer Vanessa Tugendhaft, who comes from a long line of diamond cutters and dealers based in Antwerp’s diamond district.
Showing in the Cream by Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca section, Tugendhaft, who launched her brand seven years ago with a simple red string bracelet sporting a dot diamond, will present a new line of affordable diamond jewelry line at Premiere Classe’s second edition in October. Madonna and Kate Hudson count among celebrities who have worn her pieces.
Audrey Savransky, founder and designer of Hong Kong-based jewelry brand AS29, said that many of the buyers at Premiere Classe seemed to be totally unaware of spiraling raw material costs.
“It makes a difference, especially on the small pieces,” said Savransky, whose family also works in the diamond trade in Antwerp. With demand still healthy for luxury items, the designer, who launched in 2008, showcased her most expensive piece to date at the event, a sapphire encrusted gold-plated cuff in the shape of a spinal cord, retailing at 60,000 euros, or about $80,000 at current exchange rates. The piece sports 9,000 stones.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty