BIDERMANN’S BESTIES: It’s no secret that Aurélie Bidermann’s jewelry has its share of fans, and judging from the designer’s constant interruptions while walking through her new collection to greet beloved friends and guests during her presentation in Paris on Wednesday, they love her too.
The Webster Miami’s Laure Heriard Dubreuil, who calls Bidermann a “dear, dear friend,” said she was “so happy and proud” the designer was staging a formal event during fashion week. Dubreuil said she had her eye on some of the fine jewelry inspired by the Matisse exhibit.
The presentation marked a new direction for the designer, whose high costume jewelry referenced the late Sixties and early Seventies, which, according to Bidermann, is “always the time for me.” However, this time the collection had a sharper graphic edge, incorporating lots of black onyx and Bakelite, mother of pearl and mirror.
For instance, there were large semicircle disc earrings with mirror insets featuring a clover-embossed pattern on the back; a large black Bakelite choker twisted with gold, and Bakelite cuffs in black and white featuring a small mirror inset “to be worn dancing in the discotheque with the lights bouncing off. You can have a little mirror to see your lipstick in,” explained Bidermann.
This was also the occasion to show her new fine jewelry, which featured a new sapphire glass box vitrine necklace that displays a mini Buddha or origami statue.
She expanded her floating stones series, inspired by visits to see the exhibit “Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs” in both London and New York, introducing panes between the glass to add several different colors of stone, such as sapphire, emeralds and diamonds, in homage to the French artist’s color patterns.
Topping off the collection was a new red gold and pink ruby pomegranate charm and a full, uneaten apple charm in yellow gold to compliment Bidermann’s well-known eaten-apple core charm.