Now is not just a buyer’s market for jewelry, it’s an aficionado’s dream. Here is a listing of new books and exhibits for those who are “just looking.”
Tiffany & Co. knows a thing or two about style. What started as a stationery and “fancy goods” emporium in 1837 developed into one of the world’s premier jewelry firms. In his latest book, “Tiffany Style” (Harry N. Abrams Inc., $50), John Loring, Tiffany’s design director, explores the evolution of American taste as seen through some of the most preeminent purveyors of luxury. From Elsa Peretti to Paloma Picasso, the 304-page tome tracks the rise of American style for the last 170 years.
“We’ve become a very much more evolved society than when Tiffany opened its doors,” Loring said. “Americans were developing their own style based on nature and not inherited ideas from the baggage of European civilization. We have progressed brilliantly and can now see very different styles of jewelry today.” — Caroline Tell
Way Back When
Humans have long liked to bedeck themselves in baubles. Nowhere is that in more evidence than the “Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry” exhibit, open at Baltimore’s Walters Art Museum through Jan. 4.
The exhibit highlights hundreds of pieces of fine jewelry of all types, from 3,000 B.C. through the early 20th century, that were collected by one of the museum’s founders, Henry Walters. One highlight of the exhibit, said Sabine Albersmeier, associate curator of ancient art at the museum, is an iris corsage from Tiffany that won the grand prize at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle. Other works of note include a brooch by Art Nouveau designer René Lalique and a section of the exhibit dedicated to rings with different meanings. — Liza Casabona
Treasures of Temple
Temple St. Clair never intended to become a jewelry designer. She rarely adorned herself before creating her own 18-karat gold and gemstone pieces.
“Designing jewelry was never my plan,” St. Clair said.“I wasn’t looking for a career in the traditional sense. I wanted a lifestyle that would allow me to continue to travel, look at art and architecture, read and explore. Somehow, all of these interests culminated for me in jewelry.”
In “Alchemy: A Passion for Jewels” (Collins/Design, $49.95), St. Clair reveals how her love of history, tradition, mythology and literature all led her into the jewelry world. The colorful book features photographs of St. Clair’s jewelry, as well as images of artifacts, paintings, people and places that have influenced her along the way. The designer also explores her collaborative relationships with Italian artisans, a superstitious fascination with charms and a passion she gained at an early age for traveling off the beaten path in search of inspiration. — C.T.
A Modern Take
Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Comfort Tiffany and René Lalique are iconic names of the 20th century who were among the rare few to define standards of luxury. Their work, influence and rivalry is the subject of “Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique,” an exhibit on view at the Cleveland Museum of Art until Jan. 18. The 300 or so pieces are culled from private and public collections and include rarely exhibited objects from the collections of Princess Grace, Queen Elizabeth II, Neil Lane and Joan Rivers.
“What distinguishes this collection is the number of private loans,” said Stephen Harrison, the museum’s curator of decorative arts and design.
Pieces on show include five Imperial Easter Eggs and the Imperial Basket of Flowers created by Fabergé for Russian czars, Tiffany’s stained glass Magnolia Window and Lalique’s Frogs and Lily Pads Vase. There are also about 75 objects from 50 other designers to put the three within their aesthetic context.
Harrison said many of the pieces offered first inklings of modernism.
“This was a crucial point in the century of design,” he said. — Marc Karimzadeh
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty