Now is not just a buyer’s market for jewelry, it’s an aficionado’s dream. Here is a listing of new books and exhibits for those who are “just looking.”
Tiffany & Co. knows a thing or two about style. What started as a stationery and “fancy goods” emporium in 1837 developed into one of the world’s premier jewelry firms. In his latest book, “Tiffany Style” (Harry N. Abrams Inc., $50), John Loring, Tiffany’s design director, explores the evolution of American taste as seen through some of the most preeminent purveyors of luxury. From Elsa Peretti to Paloma Picasso, the 304-page tome tracks the rise of American style for the last 170 years.
“We’ve become a very much more evolved society than when Tiffany opened its doors,” Loring said. “Americans were developing their own style based on nature and not inherited ideas from the baggage of European civilization. We have progressed brilliantly and can now see very different styles of jewelry today.” — Caroline Tell
Way Back When
Humans have long liked to bedeck themselves in baubles. Nowhere is that in more evidence than the “Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry” exhibit, open at Baltimore’s Walters Art Museum through Jan. 4.
The exhibit highlights hundreds of pieces of fine jewelry of all types, from 3,000 B.C. through the early 20th century, that were collected by one of the museum’s founders, Henry Walters. One highlight of the exhibit, said Sabine Albersmeier, associate curator of ancient art at the museum, is an iris corsage from Tiffany that won the grand prize at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle. Other works of note include a brooch by Art Nouveau designer René Lalique and a section of the exhibit dedicated to rings with different meanings. — Liza Casabona
Treasures of Temple
Temple St. Clair never intended to become a jewelry designer. She rarely adorned herself before creating her own 18-karat gold and gemstone pieces.
“Designing jewelry was never my plan,” St. Clair said.“I wasn’t looking for a career in the traditional sense. I wanted a lifestyle that would allow me to continue to travel, look at art and architecture, read and explore. Somehow, all of these interests culminated for me in jewelry.”
In “Alchemy: A Passion for Jewels” (Collins/Design, $49.95), St. Clair reveals how her love of history, tradition, mythology and literature all led her into the jewelry world. The colorful book features photographs of St. Clair’s jewelry, as well as images of artifacts, paintings, people and places that have influenced her along the way. The designer also explores her collaborative relationships with Italian artisans, a superstitious fascination with charms and a passion she gained at an early age for traveling off the beaten path in search of inspiration. — C.T.
A Modern Take
Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Comfort Tiffany and René Lalique are iconic names of the 20th century who were among the rare few to define standards of luxury. Their work, influence and rivalry is the subject of “Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique,” an exhibit on view at the Cleveland Museum of Art until Jan. 18. The 300 or so pieces are culled from private and public collections and include rarely exhibited objects from the collections of Princess Grace, Queen Elizabeth II, Neil Lane and Joan Rivers.
“What distinguishes this collection is the number of private loans,” said Stephen Harrison, the museum’s curator of decorative arts and design.
Pieces on show include five Imperial Easter Eggs and the Imperial Basket of Flowers created by Fabergé for Russian czars, Tiffany’s stained glass Magnolia Window and Lalique’s Frogs and Lily Pads Vase. There are also about 75 objects from 50 other designers to put the three within their aesthetic context.
Harrison said many of the pieces offered first inklings of modernism.
“This was a crucial point in the century of design,” he said. — Marc Karimzadeh
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)