Now is not just a buyer’s market for jewelry, it’s an aficionado’s dream. Here is a listing of new books and exhibits for those who are “just looking.”
Tiffany & Co. knows a thing or two about style. What started as a stationery and “fancy goods” emporium in 1837 developed into one of the world’s premier jewelry firms. In his latest book, “Tiffany Style” (Harry N. Abrams Inc., $50), John Loring, Tiffany’s design director, explores the evolution of American taste as seen through some of the most preeminent purveyors of luxury. From Elsa Peretti to Paloma Picasso, the 304-page tome tracks the rise of American style for the last 170 years.
“We’ve become a very much more evolved society than when Tiffany opened its doors,” Loring said. “Americans were developing their own style based on nature and not inherited ideas from the baggage of European civilization. We have progressed brilliantly and can now see very different styles of jewelry today.” — Caroline Tell
Way Back When
Humans have long liked to bedeck themselves in baubles. Nowhere is that in more evidence than the “Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry” exhibit, open at Baltimore’s Walters Art Museum through Jan. 4.
The exhibit highlights hundreds of pieces of fine jewelry of all types, from 3,000 B.C. through the early 20th century, that were collected by one of the museum’s founders, Henry Walters. One highlight of the exhibit, said Sabine Albersmeier, associate curator of ancient art at the museum, is an iris corsage from Tiffany that won the grand prize at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle. Other works of note include a brooch by Art Nouveau designer René Lalique and a section of the exhibit dedicated to rings with different meanings. — Liza Casabona
Treasures of Temple
Temple St. Clair never intended to become a jewelry designer. She rarely adorned herself before creating her own 18-karat gold and gemstone pieces.
“Designing jewelry was never my plan,” St. Clair said.“I wasn’t looking for a career in the traditional sense. I wanted a lifestyle that would allow me to continue to travel, look at art and architecture, read and explore. Somehow, all of these interests culminated for me in jewelry.”
In “Alchemy: A Passion for Jewels” (Collins/Design, $49.95), St. Clair reveals how her love of history, tradition, mythology and literature all led her into the jewelry world. The colorful book features photographs of St. Clair’s jewelry, as well as images of artifacts, paintings, people and places that have influenced her along the way. The designer also explores her collaborative relationships with Italian artisans, a superstitious fascination with charms and a passion she gained at an early age for traveling off the beaten path in search of inspiration. — C.T.
A Modern Take
Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Comfort Tiffany and René Lalique are iconic names of the 20th century who were among the rare few to define standards of luxury. Their work, influence and rivalry is the subject of “Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique,” an exhibit on view at the Cleveland Museum of Art until Jan. 18. The 300 or so pieces are culled from private and public collections and include rarely exhibited objects from the collections of Princess Grace, Queen Elizabeth II, Neil Lane and Joan Rivers.
“What distinguishes this collection is the number of private loans,” said Stephen Harrison, the museum’s curator of decorative arts and design.
Pieces on show include five Imperial Easter Eggs and the Imperial Basket of Flowers created by Fabergé for Russian czars, Tiffany’s stained glass Magnolia Window and Lalique’s Frogs and Lily Pads Vase. There are also about 75 objects from 50 other designers to put the three within their aesthetic context.
Harrison said many of the pieces offered first inklings of modernism.
“This was a crucial point in the century of design,” he said. — Marc Karimzadeh
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)