PARIS — Biennale des Antiquaires fever has hit Place Vendôme this week, with many of the square’s fine jewelry residents showcasing collections that will head to the fair this fall.
Scheduled to run Sept. 14 to 23 at the Grand Palais, with a scenography by Karl Lagerfeld, 10 jewelers will participate in the event, including Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel Joaillerie, Chaumet, Dior Joaillerie, Harry Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels and Wallace Chan. RELATED STORY: Louis Vuitton Jewelry Gets Its Own Home >>
“After eight years, we’re returning to the Biennale, and we’re coming back strong,” said Pierre Bouissou, chief executive officer of Boucheron, which on Monday unveiled pieces from its first fine jewelry collection under the house’s new director of creation, Claire Choisne. “It’s very much inspired by the archives. The idea was to bring the original creations back to life, with this feeling of renewal, rebirth,” said Choisne, gesturing to a photo of a vintage Boucheron ivy necklace. Its new interpretation is a stunning necklace made of rough gray diamonds in a dégradé pattern that mimics cobblestones, with springs of bright white gold and diamond for the ivy.
For another of Boucheron’s icons, a snake necklace curled into the form of a question mark, Choisne played with the idea of the original piece shedding its skin. The delightful new motif features a rose-cut 10-carat diamond for the head with a mosaic tassel set with opals and diamonds, giving the effect of pixels. Clear rock crystal and opal sections alternate along the snake’s length; inside the translucent crystals reveal caverns of tiny diamonds. The Bouquet d’Ailes (Wing Bouquet) necklace, meanwhile, was sculpted from three types of gold, with Colombian emeralds, carved morganites and tourmalines set in feather, butterfly and dragonfly wing motifs.
As for Chanel Joaillerie, its traveling fine jewelry planetarium is parked on the terrace of the Musée du Quai Branly, under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. The dome structure, which will be on display in New York in October, is filled with about 80 precious starry creations that pay homage to the 80th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s one-off 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection.
Since its 1993 inception, Chanel Joaillerie — which in September will open an atelier above its jewelry store on Place Vendôme — has revisited each of the original collection’s five themes: stars and comets, fountains and fringes, ribbons, feathers and suns. Now, for the first time, the house has added a new icon — the lion, which was Chanel’s favorite animal (she was a Leo). Thus for the Constellation du Lion sautoir, a majestic lion is carved from rutilated quartz, standing astride a diamond comet, with a 32.9-carat cushion-cut yellow diamond dangling below.
Two of the house’s jewelry sets also pay tribute to the house founder. They feature a stone pattern with five different cuts of diamonds worked in a motif inspired by the floor of the orphanage Chanel was sent to as a child following the death of her mother.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion