MILAN — With private equity firm Clessidra SGR’s acquisition of a majority stake in Buccellati last year — and the subsequent arrival of new chief executive officer Thierry Andretta — the Italian jewelry company has been busy modernizing its artisanal image and plotting future growth.
“It’s a time of expansion, but also a kind of restart for the company,” said Andretta, noting that Buccellati has been focusing on making its jewelry more accessible to a wider range of customers, while remaining on the high end of the market: engagement rings in the new Romanza collection, for instance, range from between 7,000 and 8,000 euros, or about $9,755 to $11,148 at current exchange, to 30,000 or 40,000 euros, or $41,806 to $55,740, depending on the materials used.
Since about 70 percent of its offering comprises one-of-a-kind pieces, to achieve its goal of greater accessibility, Buccellati has concentrated on developing its line of watches and five core “families” of jewelry, in a range of materials and levels of detail. During a presentation in Milan on Tuesday, Andretta said this strategy had allowed the company to lower its starting prices by 15 to 20 percent, which “positions us more competitively in the world of haute joaillerie.” In addition, the five jewelry families will appear in international advertising campaigns, reinforcing brand recognition, and a new Buccellati logo is in the works.
At Baselworld this year, Buccellati introduced a gold-engraved, diamond-encrusted iPhone case and iPad Mini holder inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings of the sun, and the items are a taste of the company’s future foray into technological accessories, said creative director Andrea Buccellati, whose designer daughter Lucrezia dreamed up the pieces. “We’re now developing other products based on the concept of technology, obviously with all the characteristics inherent to Buccellati’s DNA,” he said.
Andretta said response to the tech accessories had been enthusiastic, notably in the U.S. “There is a client base in new markets and new niches in the world of haute joaillerie that doesn’t have hard and fast rules and isn’t fixated just on beautiful earrings and rings and necklaces, but is willing to enter new terrain,” he said.
The company is looking into further expansion in the U.S. market — where it already has four flagships, in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Aspen, Colo. — and also in Hong Kong. In Dubai, Andretta said Buccellati is considering joint ventures or directly operated stores, owing to the city’s high volume of tourists, whereas in the rest of the Middle East, where most customers are residents, the firm is considering partnerships with local partners.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)