MILAN — With private equity firm Clessidra SGR’s acquisition of a majority stake in Buccellati last year — and the subsequent arrival of new chief executive officer Thierry Andretta — the Italian jewelry company has been busy modernizing its artisanal image and plotting future growth.
“It’s a time of expansion, but also a kind of restart for the company,” said Andretta, noting that Buccellati has been focusing on making its jewelry more accessible to a wider range of customers, while remaining on the high end of the market: engagement rings in the new Romanza collection, for instance, range from between 7,000 and 8,000 euros, or about $9,755 to $11,148 at current exchange, to 30,000 or 40,000 euros, or $41,806 to $55,740, depending on the materials used.
Since about 70 percent of its offering comprises one-of-a-kind pieces, to achieve its goal of greater accessibility, Buccellati has concentrated on developing its line of watches and five core “families” of jewelry, in a range of materials and levels of detail. During a presentation in Milan on Tuesday, Andretta said this strategy had allowed the company to lower its starting prices by 15 to 20 percent, which “positions us more competitively in the world of haute joaillerie.” In addition, the five jewelry families will appear in international advertising campaigns, reinforcing brand recognition, and a new Buccellati logo is in the works.
At Baselworld this year, Buccellati introduced a gold-engraved, diamond-encrusted iPhone case and iPad Mini holder inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings of the sun, and the items are a taste of the company’s future foray into technological accessories, said creative director Andrea Buccellati, whose designer daughter Lucrezia dreamed up the pieces. “We’re now developing other products based on the concept of technology, obviously with all the characteristics inherent to Buccellati’s DNA,” he said.
Andretta said response to the tech accessories had been enthusiastic, notably in the U.S. “There is a client base in new markets and new niches in the world of haute joaillerie that doesn’t have hard and fast rules and isn’t fixated just on beautiful earrings and rings and necklaces, but is willing to enter new terrain,” he said.
The company is looking into further expansion in the U.S. market — where it already has four flagships, in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Aspen, Colo. — and also in Hong Kong. In Dubai, Andretta said Buccellati is considering joint ventures or directly operated stores, owing to the city’s high volume of tourists, whereas in the rest of the Middle East, where most customers are residents, the firm is considering partnerships with local partners.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)