NEW YORK — Cartier is looking to the past with its new jewelry collection, Amulette de Cartier.
Based on the concept of amulets, objects meant to ward off evil or to bring good fortune, the range features variations of a disclike charm designed to act as a collector of one’s innermost wishes. “We went back to the origin of jewelry,” said Emmanuel Perrin, president and chief executive officer of Cartier North America. “Before it had an artistic function, it was a curse repellent or a good-luck charm. We’ve come back to that aspect, which for Cartier has always been a strong component.”
The collection, inspired by Cartier’s XXL Padlock charm bracelets of the Fifties, features a circular pendant crafted from mother-of-pearl, onyx or diamonds, with a small onyx or diamond placed in the center. The piece is offered in four pendant sizes, as well as a sautoir necklace and simple bracelet. The collection, which ranges from $1,910 to $82,500, marks what Perrin describes as a “revival of daywear.”
“We wanted something more playful, younger, more feminine,” he said. “We’ve been a bit more focused lately on the high end, which is much more difficult to show. Our clients, yes, but then in a preview, more than half of it is sold and gone, never to be seen. It affects the perception of our creativity, compared to what it really is.”
Cartier is also introducing a collection of leather goods — its first major launch in the handbag category since the debut of the Marcello line in 2007. The collection is split into two divisions: the Jeanne Toussaint, for women, and the Louis Cartier, for men. The Jeanne Toussaint collection, named for the company’s former bag designer and jewelry department head, consists of seven styles crafted from leather, crocodile, hard stones and metal finishes. Three “creative editions” will be available in limited quantities. A made-to-measure option will be offered in Cartier boutiques on these models, where customers can customize which materials are used. Prices for the collection range from $2,260 for a leather clutch to $14,800 for a limited-edition crocodile bag.
The Louis Cartier collection includes six bags, with two limited-edition pieces. Styles include messenger bags, briefcases and document holders, with prices ranging from $1,500 for a leather business portfolio to $46,300 for a crocodile messenger bag.
The Amulette de Cartier collection and the new leather goods lines are available beginning today at Cartier boutiques — including the new 59th Street outpost here, which also opens today. Last Saturday, the luxury jeweler shuttered its landmark Fifth Avenue mansion for renovations that will last about two years. The new boutique, located on Fifth Avenue and 59th Street, will serve as its main New York outpost in the meantime. The two-story boutique measures 11,000 square feet, with 8,000 square feet designated as selling space — its largest worldwide. The decor features high ceilings decorated with chandeliers, oak paneling and glass display fixtures trimmed in bronze. The Bruno Moinard-designed space has dedicated areas for engagement and bridal jewelry, watches, high-end jewelry, vintage pieces and accessories. According to Perrin, the goal was to create a space that did not feel temporary and maintained the company’s luxury vision.
Just seven blocks north of the Cartier mansion, the location itself is embedded in brand history. In a letter dated Sept. 13, 1908, Alfred Cartier wrote home to Paris about his search for the company’s first New York space. “According to what we’ve decided, I’ve been looking for space for locations to rent that could fit our needs. There are actually very few. So far, the building occupied by Maison Alavoine is the most interesting to us. It is at 712 Fifth Avenue, five minutes from the park and three minutes from the Plaza, and the most French, in Louis XVI style with fine stone masonry.”
“I would love to say that we followed the letter, but it’s not true,” said Perrin. “We actually discovered the letter after we had decided on the space, but it’s a very nice touch. It’s interesting to see that in almost 100 years the key location in New York hasn’t changed that much.”
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)