PARIS — Chaumet’s new creative director, Claire Dévé-Rakoff, has unveiled her first complete fine jewelry collection, marking her official debut more than a year after her arrival at the storied Place Vendôme jeweler.
The Chaumet Hortensia collection, inspired by the hydrangea, is the first floral-themed one for the 233-year-old house, famous as the official jeweler of Napoleon Bonaparte.
“Floral lines are essential in jewelry. Each jeweler has his own flower, so to speak, and at Chaumet we didn’t have one,” said Thierry Fritsch, the company’s president. “We chose the hydrangea, which suits us, as the hydrangea is a subtle and complex flower that is a little hard to work.”
Pointing at a floral display in the entrance of Chaumet’s ballroomlike salon, Dévé-Rakoff said the bloom was more versatile than one might expect.
“People think a hydrangea is basically a white ball — simple, round. But if you look at all the types of hydrangeas from Japan and Taiwan, there are some with round petals, others with pointed ones, and they come in astounding colors,” she noted.
Accordingly, the 24-piece collection is divided into three sections corresponding to different aspects of the flower.
“Budding Emotion” represents the most feminine and sensual end, with rings, a brooch, earrings and a necklace that can be broken up and worn as two short necklaces and a bracelet. The pink gold pieces feature irregular clusters of diamonds, pink tourmalines, sculpted opal cabochons and pink sapphires.
“Bold Emotion” is in the house’s more familiar graphic style, with a necklace, rings, earrings, a cuff and a watch set with blue sapphires, tanzanite, white opal and sculpted lapis lazuli on white gold or platinum. The cuff is the most expensive piece, retailing for 900,000 euros, or $1.2 million at current exchange, including tax in France.
The final selection, “Deep Emotion,” is what Dévé-Rakoff calls the “Byzantine” end of the collection. The star piece is a pink gold necklace set with rubies, pink sapphires, pink and red tourmalines and rhodolite garnets, with a 25.68-carat pear-shaped red tourmaline pendant.
A watch with a bracelet made from three rows of pearl-cut rubies, earrings and rings with intricately interwoven settings completes the set.
Dévé-Rakoff, who launched her own company specializing in jewelry and accessory design at the age of 21, said her experience working for brands including Claude Montana, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel allowed her freedom to experiment with different materials and techniques.
“I’ve done everything from bags to clothes to plates to interior design — there are no limits,” she said.
Fritsch said the house plans to develop more fine jewelry collections to meet booming demand from markets such as China, Russia and Brazil, though the Chaumet Hortensia collection should also feed through to a more accessibly priced line.
“Our priorities for development skew to the high end and fine jewelry, which does not prevent us from also making watches and having accessibly priced lines, because the latter are absolutely necessary for a house to conquer new clients and are absolutely not contradictory with producing fine jewelry,” he said.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)