NEW YORK — In a world of opulence, craftsmanship and ingenuity count most.
That is the message in estate and contemporary jeweler Fred Leighton's exhibit of Art Deco jewels and objects, "Timeless Glamour," which opened Thursday night with a private party at Leighton's Madison Avenue flagship here.
"Fred Leighton has always had a strong Art Deco presence with jewelry pieces and jeweled objects," said Leighton chairman Ralph Esmerian. "Art Deco is the zenith of great workmanship in jewelry when the world was coming out of its cocoon. The world had developed into a material paradise."
Art Deco flourished in between the world wars from 1920 to 1939 and was prevalent in Paris, London, Rome and New York. Society was fixated on industry, building skyscrapers and ocean liners, and the techniques that brought such revolutionary concepts to fruition.
Jewelers were no exception. Houses such as Cartier experimented with techniques such as enameling and lacquer in vibrant colors and plique-à-jour, a decorative technique in which enamel is placed in between the metal rather than on top of it, for a luminous appearance. The museum clock was invented in the period. The style was to set a clock almost invisibly into a gemstone, such as a large citrine or aquamarine, so only the hands would be visible. Eighty such clocks were made in the period. One is on display in the exhibit.
Other styles popularized in the period include jewelry using nonprecious materials such as wood — inspired by African art — and a mosaic-type setting for gemstones, including rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
Leading jewelers of the movement were Cartier, Boucheron, Fouquet, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, most of which had offices in New York. Examples of all are displayed in the store.
Esmerian said the level of craftsmanship is brilliant in Art Deco, which is one reason jewelry and objects from the era have long been drawing big numbers at auction.
Everything in the exhibit is for sale. Some outstanding pieces include a white gold cuff with insets of rock crystal and pavé diamonds and a cage for a Maharaja's tree frog made of jade, gold and other precious materials.
"It's skilled work that we'll never see again," Esmerian said. "What is done today is copies."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
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Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast