NEW YORK — In a world of opulence, craftsmanship and ingenuity count most.
That is the message in estate and contemporary jeweler Fred Leighton's exhibit of Art Deco jewels and objects, "Timeless Glamour," which opened Thursday night with a private party at Leighton's Madison Avenue flagship here.
"Fred Leighton has always had a strong Art Deco presence with jewelry pieces and jeweled objects," said Leighton chairman Ralph Esmerian. "Art Deco is the zenith of great workmanship in jewelry when the world was coming out of its cocoon. The world had developed into a material paradise."
Art Deco flourished in between the world wars from 1920 to 1939 and was prevalent in Paris, London, Rome and New York. Society was fixated on industry, building skyscrapers and ocean liners, and the techniques that brought such revolutionary concepts to fruition.
Jewelers were no exception. Houses such as Cartier experimented with techniques such as enameling and lacquer in vibrant colors and plique-à-jour, a decorative technique in which enamel is placed in between the metal rather than on top of it, for a luminous appearance. The museum clock was invented in the period. The style was to set a clock almost invisibly into a gemstone, such as a large citrine or aquamarine, so only the hands would be visible. Eighty such clocks were made in the period. One is on display in the exhibit.
Other styles popularized in the period include jewelry using nonprecious materials such as wood — inspired by African art — and a mosaic-type setting for gemstones, including rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
Leading jewelers of the movement were Cartier, Boucheron, Fouquet, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, most of which had offices in New York. Examples of all are displayed in the store.
Esmerian said the level of craftsmanship is brilliant in Art Deco, which is one reason jewelry and objects from the era have long been drawing big numbers at auction.
Everything in the exhibit is for sale. Some outstanding pieces include a white gold cuff with insets of rock crystal and pavé diamonds and a cage for a Maharaja's tree frog made of jade, gold and other precious materials.
"It's skilled work that we'll never see again," Esmerian said. "What is done today is copies."
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)