PARIS — Ready-to-wear may take center stage this week, but an intriguing range of accessories awaits visitors to Paris Fashion Week. Here’s a look at some of the newest in the arena.
All Fired Up
Not many Kalashnikov bullets carry 7,000 euro, or $10,200, price tags. But then, not many come constructed from white gold, their brushed tips flecked with pavé diamonds.
Fine jewelry newcomer Caroline Gaspard, who will be launching her Akillis collection this week, said the loaded charms are designed to bring out one’s “inner James Bond girl.”
“I wanted to create a collection that was inventive and interchangeable, with a new, rather aggressive [spirit],” said the 26-year-old designer, whose other lines include diamond-encrusted jigsaw puzzle pieces and link bracelets inspired by her father’s Rolex watches.
Gaspard’s ambition is to shake up fusty attitudes to fine jewelry.
“Women tend to either buy classic jewelry or cheap fashion-forward pieces, even if they have big means,” she said. “It’s time to add a bit of fun and fashion to this frosty world.”
Man has forever imitated nature. But Israeli jewelry designer Tzuri Gueta has brought the art to new heights with his realistic imitations crafted from silicon, silk and viscose fiber blends.
Gueta launched his jewelry line two years ago following years of working as a couture textile designer and researcher.
“When I work with coral, say, I don’t remove it from its habitat. I prefer to be inspired by nature, but not use it,” said the designer, whose spring collection is inspired by bones, horn and fossils, as a poetic study of the elegant structure of animal skeletons.
Gueta’s vision is to explore materials differently from the way people are accustomed to seeing it in jewelry.
“I want to show a new material that can really imitate and push forward innovation, as well as show its advantages,” he said, describing how silicon, an ultralight and soft material, also caresses the shape of the body. “It’s very similar to our organs in structure and can imitate a wide range of matter, be it glass, wood, leather.”
Sophie Reyre is out to run rings around the Paris jewelry scene. The designer’s first, color-soaked collection takes inspiration from India’s ancient Mogul Empire.
“I like surprising color mixes and the idea of encrusting motifs on colored stones,” said Reyre, who also favors contrasting high-low materials, such as resin with precious and semiprecious stones like tourmalines, amber, rubies and sapphires.
The line is sold at Karry O’ in Paris, retailing for 1,200 to 2,300 euros, or $1,750 to $3,350.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)