PARIS — The holiday season generated a boost in business for accessories and jewelry brands showing at the recent Premiere Classe and Eclat de Mode trade fairs here.
Retailers scrutinized prices, but were generally less tense about the economic downturn, exhibitors said. Combined traffic to Premiere Classe and the adjacent Who’s Next fair rose by 5 percent compared with last September’s session, to 57,733 visitors.
Homages to Michael Jackson surfaced across jewelry collections. Fashion fever also took hold, from Anne-Marie Herckes’ brooches loaded with miniature outfits of style icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Karl Lagerfeld, to Défilés’ charming, hand-made enamel pendants and pins based on silhouettes from this season’s collections.
The European economy “is much better than the States, no question,” said Jessica Kagan Cushman, designer of her namesake American accessories brand.
Making flexibility a priority, the designer said she had adjusted prices, increased product variety and bulked up on stock for immediate delivery.
A spokeswoman for Canadian department store La Maison Simons agreed brands were being flexible.
“Everyone’s aware of the currency; it more than doubles prices for us,” the spokeswoman said, referring to the strength of the euro against the U.S. and Canadian dollars.
She added that the store was looking for ethnic jewelry to complement the season’s natural mood.
Elegant cat’s-eye styles were a bestseller for eyewear designer Thierry Lasry, who at the salon’s next edition at the Tuileries garden here in October will launch a jewelry line called Lasry 77:82. Multistrand freshwater pearl necklaces worked best at So Yang, while pliable Panama-style hats were popular at Mühlbauer.
For spring bag trends, it was still a case of extremes: either oversize and slouchy, in butter-soft leathers or compact. Brights and naturals coexisted. Contrasts were at play, such as a colored body with nude handles. Canvas and woven styles were also rife at the show.
Reflecting the times, demand in jewelry continues for trinkets, talismans and message items.
“It doesn’t matter about the price, it’s all about personalizing jewelry, having your own name on it,” said Anna Park, who owns six fashion stores named Anna across England.
Retailers also noted a rush of new gold and diamond collections, such as Lyie Van Rycke, which introduced precious takes on its heart pendants. AS29, a Hong Kong-based jewelry line that markets its gold and diamond designs as medication (the pieces come in pill boxes), also reported robust business.
Nature, notably florals, was a major theme.
“Flowers will be big, but there’s also a big return to white,” said a spokeswoman for Le Bon Marché.
In its platform on the Eclat de Mode forecourt, Crystallized Swarovski Elements presented its latest round of designer collaborations. Items included a crystal-studded, lip-shaped clutch by Lulu Guinness and dolly pendants by Servane Gaxotte.
At Eclat de Mode, Jacques Fath presented its first official jewelry collection for the current fall season designed by Philippe Ferrandis, who has acquired the license. The spring line will be unveiled at Premiere Classe in October.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia