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Italian Jewelry Firms Change Owners

After LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s takeover of Bulgari this year, sources here speculate that potential investors have their sights set on Pomellato.

MILAN — A wind of change is blowing through the Italian jewelry industry.

After LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s takeover of Bulgari this year, sources here speculate that potential investors have their sights set on Pomellato. French conglomerate PPR was said to be the leading candidate to acquire the brand, but now investment-merchant bank TIP has emerged as a potential suitor.

According to an Italian press report, the bank, headed by Giovanni Tamburi, made an offer to buy 20 percent of Pomellato, equal to the share owned by the Damiani Group.

Pomellato on Thursday denied an offer was made. “We are unaware of any interest — or offer — of TIP in the Pomellato share owned by Sparkle Lussemburgo SA (Damiani) and we think these rumors are unfounded,” the company told WWD. 

In addition, Italian Bros Manifatture, which owns several brands including Bros, Brosway Jewels and Brosway Watches, recently acquired the Arezzo, Italy-based fashion jewelry brand Rosato.

Founded by Simona Rosato and her husband Riccardo Borghesi in 2001, Rosato was acquired by the Mariella Burani Fashion Group in 2006, which sold it back to the founders three years later before eventually going bankrupt.

Because of the tough economy, Rosato and Borghesi have now sold the company to Bros Manifatture, which plans to re-launch the brand, focusing on its DNA and the high-quality standard of Arezzo goldsmiths. 

“Rosato is a brand founded on creativity and innovation. That’s why I’m happy to guide the relaunch of this company, which is in line with Brosway’s mission,” said Lanfranco Belleggia, founder and president of Bros Manifatture. “I’ll work with Rosato management to totally absorb and understand the brand DNA in order to present again the creations that made Rosato famous in the world and to complete its offer with novelties that are loyal to its style but that can also satisfy the market.”

Bros Manifatture, which has already acquired the Rosato boutique in Rome, aims to place the brand in major department and specialty stores worldwide, and to open its own flagships.