NEW YORK — Fine jewelry isn’t the hot ticket it was a year ago.
Buyers and new styles were scarce at the JA NY Winter Show that ended a three-day run at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center on Jan. 20.
Brands didn’t offer much freshness in their lines, seeking to avoid building up more inventory of gold, diamonds and other materials in the troubled economy. However, that didn’t stop some new designers, such as Ana Cavalheiro and Kir, from exhibiting.
Camille Hull, a buyer and merchandiser at London Jewelers, said her presence at the show was more for research than to place orders.
“I didn’t do any buying,” Hull said. “Without knowing where we’re headed in 2009, we feel like we have enough inventory to get us through these quiet months.”
But she said the retailer is still hopeful and plans several initiatives.
“We’re hoping when the weather breaks, people will be ready to shop again,” Hull said.
Janet Goldman, founder and chairman of Fragments, which has a showroom and two stores in New York, lamented that show traffic was slow.
“Customers that did attend the show were nervous about spending,” Goldman said. “They have inventory from the holidays and are extremely cautious about committing to dollars. Notes were taken and paper was barely left. Price was the big issue.”
Some of the brands at the Fragments booth offered lower-priced options or silver selections to appeal to buyers. Emily & Ashley did silver disks with engraving starting at $45, and Margaret Ellis showed hand-forged silver pieces with touches of gold at $120. Outside the Fragments booth, Gurhan expanded on its silver collection that launched last year.
Dana David, a seven-year-old brand based in Middletown, N.J., offered charm jewelry at competitive prices. Initial necklaces retail from $170 to $360 and the firm started a 14-karat gold collection.
“People are really into personal expression jewelry,” said Dana Melnick, owner and designer of Dana David.
Ana Cavalheiro, whose namesake firm is based in Santa Monica, Calif., offered architectural-inspired gold pieces with color-saturated gemstones such as tourmalines at her first trade show. Prices start at $45 at wholesale for a small silver piece and climb into the tens of thousands of dollars for a gold and diamond piece.
Kir, a new line founded by designer Kirsten Boedecker, was focused on silver jewelry with gold details. Prices range from $200 to $1,600 and all production is done in Bali.
“For Kir, the show was mostly about developing relationships,” said Boedecker, who picked up several independent boutiques as customers, such as Gilded Lily in Woodbury, Conn., and Jems Jewels & Gold in North Wales, Pa. “Our goal is to build a brand, so we are in it for the long haul. We’re taking things slowly and anticipating the future.”
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty