JCK Preview: Ones to Watch

These four jewelry lines are making their JCK debuts.

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These four jewelry lines are making their JCK debuts.

This story first appeared in the May 28, 2014 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.


Brand: Blackbird and the Snow

Designer: Marie-Juliette Bird

Based In: Boulder, Colo.

Show Category: Design Center

Booth Number: S11105

Year Founded: 2012

Number of pieces in collection: about 50.

Back Story: While apprenticing in London under master jeweler David Courts, creator of the original Keith Richards skull ring, Marie-Juliette Bird began a collection of Victorian charms that serve as the inspiration for her own line, Blackbird and the Snow.

Handcrafted from recycled metal and ethically sourced stones, the collection of antique reproduction, fine and fashion jewelry includes diamonds, gold and sterling silver. It maintains a delicate, antiquelike aesthetic while taking its cues from themes in nature: insects, wings, stars, the moon and, not surprisingly, birds. Forgoing the use of a computer, each Blackbird and the Snow piece centers around a handcrafted charm made using pre-industrial era artisanal techniques.

Retail prices range from $440 to $5,700.

“The natural world is my source of true inspiration,” said Bird. “I also love Victorian jewelry design, particularly the Darwinian fascination with nature. My jewelry line echoes this era of fine craftsmanship while creating a wearable ode to nature. Each piece is custom created and handmade in America using recycled gold and ethically sourced stones.”

NEXT: Eco-Elegance >>

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Brand: Irthly Jewelled Adornments

Designer: David Alvarado

Based In: Los Angeles

Show Category: Design Center

Booth Number: S11103

Year Founded: 2012

Number of pieces in collection: 64

“My Classics Collection thus far contains six series totaling about 40 items and my Art D’Eco Collection so far has five series with seven items,” Alvarado said. “I also have the Irthly Sans Collection that will have 15 different items, with about five at the show.”

Back Story: Jeweler David Alvarado set about creating an eco-friendly collection that maintains a luxurious, high-end feel in the fine jewelry arena.

Made of natural materials like recycled gold, fair trade gems and conflict-free diamonds, Alvarado’s collection is an elegant ode to Mother Nature, representing both environmental conscientiousness as well as the origins of life.

Pieces range from $1,000 to $10,000 at retail.

“It’s a philosophical intent where I want to raise awareness of other elements of the world that I think are just as precious as jewelry,” Alvarado said, referring to his “classics” collection, which features the seed from an Ecuadorian palm tree meant to represent birth and the womb.

NEXT: “I Live My Dreams” >>


Brand: Dani by Daniel K

Designer: Daniel Koren

Based In: New York

Show Category: Luxury

Number of pieces in collection: 500

Booth Number: LUX1700

Year Founded: Dani by Daniel K was founded in 2013 and made its debut at Baselworld in 2014; The Daniel K brand was founded in 1999.

Back Story: Renowned jeweler Daniel Koren, whose pieces have adorned A-listers like Oprah Winfrey and Naomi Campbell, has launched a semiprecious designer diffusion brand, Dani by Daniel K, in hopes of bringing his sought-after creations to a broader audience.

Following the tag line “I live my dreams” — an admiration of female customers who pursue what’s most important to them — the collection mirrors the craftsmanship and design standards of Daniel K pieces. But rather than the likes of diamonds, emeralds, gold and platinum, Dani by Daniel K pieces are made from sterling silver, cubic zirconia and lab-grown stones, allowing for a more youthful aesthetic as well as a lower price point.

The core products range from $150 to $1,000 at retail, with some specialty/statement pieces ranging as high as $6,000.

The use of such materials has also allowed Koren to explore more imaginative design variations, creating pieces that complement a woman’s figure and can be worn in everyday situations as well as formal occasions.

Koren hopes the new line will give all types of women the ability to wear high-quality, elegant jewelry. “This is my way of participating in their quest and to finally be able to share my love of jewelry while making it attainable to women everywhere.”

NEXT: Mind & Body Jewels >>


Brand: Mrs. T. Jewels

Designer: Tylda Kaloustian Ghosn

Based In: Beirut, Lebanon

Category: Luxury

Booth Number: LUXEE3

Year Founded: 2002

Number of pieces in collection: 50

Back Story: Having left a career in advertising to pursue her true passion, Tylda Ghosn — aka Mrs. T. — allows her perfectionist nature to come through within her bold, sophisticated designs. Often centered around precious and semiprecious stones, each Mrs. T. piece spins a tale reflecting the experiences, travels and dreams of the designer, and is inspired by what she views as the interconnectivity of life.

Ghosn’s creations have garnered prestigious international recognition, including the 2004 Tahitian Pearl trophy for her piece “Dalí’s Eye Revisited,” inspired by the works of Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso and Alberto Giacometti.

Seductive 18-karat gold ankle and body chains, cuffs, earrings and rings comprise the designer’s current collection, which features black, brown and white diamonds. The range retails from $1,200 to $26,000.

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