By  on February 6, 2012

She might have started out creating dainty,fine jewelry, but Jennifer Fisher’s new contemporary offerings areanything but.

Fisher illustrated this by taking a massiveskeleton-head cuff and placing it on her wrist in her SoHo showroom inNew York last week — alongside the seven brass gold and rose goldbracelets she was already wearing. Among them were a textured bone cuff,a skinny bangle with skulls on each end, a perforated “Band-Aid”bracelet and various geometric-shaped bangles — or an “arm party,” aterm coined and trademarked by blogger-of-the-moment Leandra Medine,also known as the Man Repeller.

“I always said I’d never docostume jewelry,” Fisher said. “But I started to do brass becauseeditorials wanted larger, gold pieces. This directly led to creatingbrass pieces that weren’t plated. I always hated looking at costumepieces and seeing that they were chipping — which is why I never wantedto do it.”

The energetic designer, wearing one of her 17 pairsof leather pants, buzzed around the downtown space, pulling out herlatest brass bones, spines, skeletons, chains, wings, cones, handcuffs,bullets, words, beating hearts, vertebrae, snakes and Gothic lettercharms. She calls the showroom a “cool cave” — a mix of warm gray pythonwalls and nickel fixtures that give off a rose-tinted light.

“Istarted to do full brass [jewelry] — and not silver because everyonedid silver. I always pair pieces that are clean and minimal with piecesthat have texture. I like to mix the clean, flat metals with ones thathave an edgier, gritty feel. That’s how I like to mix the brass, so youdon’t have this one-dimensional arm of flat, polished, pretty jewelry.”

Fisher’s brass range starts at $65 for a simple ring and goes to $2,000for a 14-karat rose gold-plated quadruple buckle cuff — a new additionto her contemporary range for spring. The bulk of the pieces are around$500, but she said the “sweet spot” is definitely in the $300 to $400range.

The brass range was picked up by Barneys New York lastyear — and come spring, the retailer will carry the collection in all ofits Co-op locations and on barneys.com.

As a whole, the companysaw 60 percent growth in 2011, especially due to internationale-commerce sales on the brand’s site, jenniferfisherjewelry.com, which is thesource of 90 percent of the company’s revenue.

“I wanted [theshowroom] to feel like an underground store. People don’t realize thatyou can come in and shop — I always felt a storefront was so expected,”Fisher said — butadded that she might have to take the plunge nextyear and open her first freestanding boutique.

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