London's Victoria & Albert Museum is opening a more luxurious backdrop for its treasure trove of jewels.
On Thursday, the museum will unveil its William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery, a two-story space designed by Eva Jiricna with matte black floors, curved glass cabinets, which run down its center, and a glass spiral staircase that links the ground and mezzanine levels.
The gallery spotlights around 3,500 pieces of jewelry, many from the museum's existing collection. The jewelry has been curated to span the history of European adornment, from deep yellow Etruscan gold neck pieces from the sixth century B.C. and delicate diamond brooches from the 18th century to the graphic jewelry made from materials such as plastic and pebbles , which came into vogue in the Sixties.
"Every different period has its own style — it's always a mix of social history, fashion and what materials are available," said Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, consultant curator for the gallery.
The gallery's revamp is a result of a gift of $13.6 million from William Bollinger.
Several of the gallery's major pieces stand out for their historical significance as much as their sparkling stones. One of the pieces on display is a heavily detailed emerald and diamond necklace, with matching emerald and diamond teardrop earrings, called the Beauharnais Emeralds, which Emperor Napoleon and his wife, Josephine, gave to their adopted daughter, Stephanie de Beauharnais, when she married the Grand Duke of Baden in 1806.
"I often think, if [the jewelry] could only speak," said Chadour-Sampson. "It's adornment, but it's also for enjoyment."
Several of the museum's standout pieces, including jewelry produced by Cartier and Chaumet, are displayed in the gallery's central cabinets so visitors can see the jewels from all angles. They include two Cartier diamond tiaras from the early 20th century, one of which was made for Consuelo, Duchess of Manchester, formerly Consuelo Yznaga. There's also a chunky Chaumet platinum cuff, set with rubies and diamonds in a graphic, geometric pattern that the museum estimates dates from the mid-Thirties to mid-Forties.
While the jewelry from the present day may not be quite as glittering as the most opulent pieces in the collection, such as a necklace made from papier-mâché newspaper by Robert Ebendorf from 1985, Chadour-Sampson said they are no less precious.
"[Sometimes] it's about the design, not the material," said Chadour-Sampson. "After the second half of the 20th century, anybody could wear anything."
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)