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PARIS — Lalique is marking its return to its roots.
This story first appeared in the January 25, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The company, which stopped producing jewelry in 1903, is unveiling a fine jewelry collection and a lower-priced line playing on Art Nouveau and Art Deco themes that will be presented at the Baselworld watch and jewelry fair in March. “When Silvio Denz bought Lalique four years ago, reintroducing jewelry was part of his development strategy,” said Anne Kazuro, Lalique’s creative director of jewelry.
Kazuro and designer Quentin Obadia joined the company nine months ago from a major Place Vendôme jeweler, where they worked together. Both said they relish the creative freedom given them since they joined Lalique.
The house is developing what it describes as an “emotional, poetic” jewelry collection, to seduce a younger clientele, between 25 and 45 years old. “Lalique crystal tends to appeal to older people. This is about being able to wear Lalique instead of having it around you,” Kazuro explained.
The collection, dubbed The Sacred Fire Odyssey, is a contemporary interpretation of the company’s original drawings. The central muse is the fire goddess Vesta from Greco-Roman mythology. The collection of around 100 items is centered on a four-piece fine jewelry set made up of a necklace, bracelet, ring and earrings.
Worked with feather motifs, the Vesta necklace is made from white gold, diamonds and two bezel-set moonstones, and its centerpiece boasts a detachable brooch representing the goddess. The piece is expected to sell for upwards of 500,000 euros, or $647,400 at current exchange, and was made in Paris by various houses specializing in each technique it uses.
The jewelry collection, manufactured entirely in France, builds on René Lalique’s passion for Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs. The Art Nouveau pieces inspired by flora and fauna feature colorful dragonflies, peacocks and poppies. A peacock pendant with yellow, green, blue and black sapphires as well as diamonds and turquoise, will sell for around 30,000 euros, or $38,844. The Art Deco creations are based on never-ending circle designs, and are priced between 1,500 and 7,000 euros, or $1,942 and $9,064. The collection includes bridal pieces, priced between 500 and 1,500 euros, or $647 and $1,942.
Initially, the jewelry collection will be offered in the company’s own boutiques. There are around 90 Lalique stores worldwide, including franchises, and export accounts for 80 percent of revenues.