After flourishing in small workshops of independent artisans, the production of jewelry in Italy boomed at the end of the 19th century as the first factories were established. In that period, some of the industry’s big names — Bulgari, Buccellati and later Damiani and Pomellato — started building their international reputations.
“Recent [deals] have showed that the ‘Made in Italy’ brands are often targeted by international groups,” said Damiani Group president and chief executive officer Guido Damiani, referring, for example, to the acquisition of Bulgari by French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2011. “This is a sign that in Italy, the industry’s high-end segment is flourishing and that creativity, craftsmanship and Italian savoir faire are highly appreciated abroad.”
According to data provided by the Italian Chamber of Commerce association Union Filiere, the country’s jewelry business counts 28,559 companies.
The production of fine jewelry is traditionally centered in the areas around Arezzo, Tuscany; Vicenza, Veneto; and Valenza, Piedmont. Forty percent of the industry’s employees work for companies operating in these three districts.
As in other manufacturing sectors, Europe’s stagnant economy has affected the jewelry industry. In the first eleven months of 2012, the industry’s revenues dropped 1.7 percent, in particular because of the slowdown in the internal demand, which was down 14 percent. Encouraging signals came from international markets — exports during that period rose 9.5 percent compared with 2011.
While this scenario is true for big industry players, Italy’s small jewelry manufacturers were seriously hurt by the crisis in Europe.
“The companies operating in our sector are small and they expand internationally only with difficulty,” Damiani lamented. “In order to protect our ‘Made in Italy’ [branding], our companies should combine their creativity and craftsmanship with financial resources, investments and management skills.” See a List of Italian Manufacturing Districts Here >>
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty