Joining Chanel Joaillerie, Dior Joaillerie and Boucheron, a number of Place Vendôme’s resident jewelers are gearing up for the official presentation day of fine jewelry collections this Thursday.

Van Cleef & Arpels has revisited its iconic surrealist Zip necklace, with four spectacular new versions. The design was originally commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938, but only got as far as the sketch stage, being too difficult to engineer in platinum and diamonds, as she had requested. The first yellow-gold version was produced in 1951. The highly technical piece can be worn as a necklace or zipped up to form a bracelet. So which one to choose from the new quartet of white-gold Art Deco-style necklaces? Two designs feature precious stones: one with diamonds, onyx and 15 sugarloaf-cut emeralds made especially for the piece, and one with diamonds and cushion-cut multicolored sapphires. The other two feature combinations of geometric lapis lazuli stones with white mother-of-pearl and a tassel of white cultured pearls, and, for the second style, a mix of diamonds, turquoise, chloromelanite and chrysoprase. They are all equally desirable.

New themes at Lorenz Baumer, meanwhile, include a range of origami-inspired rings. Among the high jewelry additions is the house’s Poppy cuff, depicting a hummingbird feeding from a poppy. The colorful piece combines violet and pink sapphires, black and white diamonds, green beryl and tsavorites.

As for Chaumet, tiaras are its thing. Fresh out of the historic jeweler’s atelier is a new design with an irregular textured surface of diamonds and old-cut sapphires in a spectrum of blues. The hexagonal honeycomb setting comes interspersed with Chaumet’s new round setting, while a precious bee — the house’s symbol — can be unclasped from the tiara to wear as a brooch. The piece is part of its two new Bee My Love high jewelry sets, among them a lovely bee ring with round-cut sapphires, blue tourmalines, tsavorite garnets and an oval-cut tourmaline.

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