By  on May 7, 2018

The future looks just fine for jewelry designer Pamela Love.The Brooklyn, N.Y.-based designer, known for her cool girl rock-'n'-roll-inspired pieces, started her brand in 2007 and now with her most recent collection is pivoting to concentrate solely on the fine-jewelry category.Here, WWD catches up with Love about her shift in direction, keeping the brand local and sustainable practices.WWD: You started your line in 2007 and started in the fine category in 2014. What made you decide to only concentrate on fine jewelry going forward?Pamela Love: Being able to focus primarily on fine jewelry has been my goal for a long time now. I actually started dabbling in fine in 2007, and over the years it is the part of my business that I have become more and more passionate about. It has been hard to balance the fashion business and the fine business as they demand very different things of you, and ultimately I needed to make a choice to narrow my focus — to make better work.WWD: How much production is done here in New York City?P.L.: Our latest fine collection “Paillette” was created 100 percent in our studio in New York with our manufacturing partner/ jewelry guru Andrew Turi. The majority of the semiprecious stones were recut from old stones that have been sitting around for 40 years. Turi had all of this amazing old turquoise, coral, lapis, etc. that were cut into obscure shapes intended to be used for jewelry in the Seventies and Eighties but never made it into production. We were looking at it one day and both thought “Let’s recut it!” It’s all so beautiful and has such a life. All the precious stones from the collection are Kimberley certified and supplied by K.Rosengart.WWD: What are some things you learned over the past 11 years of business?P.L.: I’ve learned that how you take care of your team is the most important part of any business. It’s also extremely important to know when to say no — it’s important to have balance. I’ve been in situations where I found myself taking on far more than I could handle and if someone asked me to pile more on top of that, I would still say yes. It’s taken me about 11 years to learn that.WWD: Sustainability and localized production are an important part of your line. Have you found that ethos challenging as you moved into fine?P.L.: I actually find it easier to focus on sustainability in the fine category than in the fashion/costume jewelry category. Many of the pieces I’m creating are one-of-a-kind or very limited and I take time to make sure the materials going into each piece are coming from the best possible sources. It’s very important to me that all of our stones are ethically sourced and that the gold we use is sourced from environmentally sound extraction mining companies that are conflict-free. Recycling is also an important part of our process. We use recycled gold, and even stones, as much as possible. In other cases we partner with responsible stone sources like Gemfields and K.Rosengart.WWD: Is sustainability more or less challenging to achieve in the fine category vs. costume?P.L.: I actually find it less challenging in a lot of ways, and it's one of the reasons why I am excited to focus on fine jewelry. The emphasis in costume and the fashion jewelry world is to be cheaper and cheaper, and produce pieces faster and faster. It’s very hard to make a responsible quality product when faced with those demands. However, with fine jewelry, we are able to make something meaningful on so many levels, from the craft, the design, the materials, etc. that will last a lifetime and longer.WWD: What has been the response on your site?P.L.: Our customer is growing up with us. She’s more sophisticated and she’s concerned with where things come from and how they are made. Most importantly, she’s interested in a unique perspective — designs that don’t look like everyone else’s. Our fine-jewelry customer is far less concerned with trends than she is with meaningful artistic designs and beautiful craftsmanship.WWD: Where do you see the company going as a business in this next chapter, future plans?P.L.: I’m very excited to continue focusing on the fine jewelry business. I see us building out our offering with extremely special and thoughtful pieces in 18-karat gold as well as silver. Our web site is a very large portion of our business and I hope to continue to grow that, perhaps opening a store in the future. I’m also excited to continue growing our business with the amazing retails partners we work with who celebrate timelessness, creativity and excellent quality.

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