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Platonic Takes Democratic Approach to Diamonds

For her latest diamond jewelry collection, Platonic, Solange Azagury-Partridge didn't discriminate between the finest fancy colored diamonds, the industrial...

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For her latest diamond jewelry collection, Platonic, Solange Azagury-Partridge didn’t discriminate between the finest fancy colored diamonds, the industrial ones and even the muddy-toned rocks.

“I wanted to go from the darkest black to gray to murky yellow to bright white,” the designer said in an interview from her boudoir-like showroom on Westbourne Grove in London. “All diamonds have their purpose, reason and beauty. I think it’s more fun to have jewelry that doesn’t look like it’s made from diamonds.”

So Azagury-Partridge has accessorized her black outfit with the new Milky Way necklace: a graduated string of what looks like dishwater gray pearls. But there’s more here than meets the eye: The necklace is made from industrial diamonds that have been treated and smoothed to resemble pearls.

“I think I must have saved these diamonds from being crushed or something, and every once in a while there’s a fiery light that shoots off the necklace — it gives the piece more personality,” she said.

In addition to playing with different grades of diamonds, Azagury-Partridge also has examined mathematical shapes and geometric structures.

And Platonic also includes earrings, bracelets and rings inspired by ziggurats, the solar system and 10th-grade geometry class. She’s played with circles, squares, triangles and octahedron shapes, interlocking the different permutations into rings and earrings. There are also little charms in the shape of planets and stars.

But the shapes aren’t all from outer space. Some of the pieces are from mythical places, like the brilliant-cut, white diamond-studded headband with little gold Mercury wings.

Prices range from 180,000 pounds, or $375,000, for Far Out, a collar-like necklace with slices of white, gray and black diamonds, to 34,000 pounds, or $70,000, for dangly Pyramid earrings to 7,000 pounds, or $14,500, for the flat, Art Deco-like Tectonic ring with baguette diamonds.

Next up for Azagury-Partridge is an exhibition at Sebastian + Barquet, a Manhattan gallery that specializes in 20th- and 21st-century furniture and decorative works of art. For the first time in her career, the designer will be transforming some of her jewelry into artwork for a show set for May.

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