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Jewelry ateliers in Paris are planning to add sparkle to the Biennale des Antiquaires, which will be held at the Grand Palais Sept. 11 to 21. Cartier and...

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Jewelry ateliers in Paris are planning to add sparkle to the Biennale des Antiquaires, which will be held at the Grand Palais Sept. 11 to 21. Cartier and Chanel, two of the grandest names in gems, gave WWD a sneak preview of the collections they will be showing there.

This story first appeared in the July 1, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Playing on the Biennale’s garden theme, Chanel presented two new takes on its perennial camellia story: a featherlight, three-strand diamond necklace and the collection’s showstopper — a pin inspired by the storied house’s iconic flower. Its curved petals, which alternate between translucent panes of turquoise enamel and diamond-studded leaves, frame a bold 38-carat turquoise paraiba tourmaline at the center. Chanel will present 40 new high jewelry pieces at the Biennale.

Meanwhile, luscious rubellites, sunset-hued Paparaja sapphires and mesmerizing sea-hued opals and emeralds populate Cartier’s collection. Highlights include a watery green bracelet of emerald beads, featuring an organic Ceylon opal as its centerpiece. Diamond dragons are a big theme, curling around carved aquamarines, on a dramatic line of necklaces, offset by twisted chokers of lilac Tanzanite beads and moonstone teardrops. A selection of vintage Cartier jewelry and clocks will also be presented at the show, including a restored choker that was once part of a necklace made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala in 1928.

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