“More is more” was the personal philosophy of Tony Duquette, the famous designer of furniture, jewelry, interiors and movie sets, known for his flair for exotic excess.
His client list reads like one big name check of Hollywood’s Golden Age. There was Vincente Minnelli, for whom Duquette worked on the set of “Ziegfeld Follies of 1944”; the Duchess of Windsor, who commissioned Duquette to design jewelry and Mary Pickford, Elizabeth Arden, Doris Duke and J. Paul Getty, all for whom Duquette dreamt up lavish decors. Then there were his own homes: Sortilegium, his Malibu ranch which he envisioned as a modern Shangri-la and was destroyed in a fire in 1993, and Dawnridge, the Beverly Hills villa that remains preserved, along with the rest of the estate, by Hutton Wilkinson, Duquette’s business partner of 30 years.
When Duquette died in 1999 at the age of 85, he left behind a visual legacy that remains a constant source of inspiration and marketing opportunities for interior designers, publishing houses, museum curators and occasionally American mega-brands like Coach, which has partnered with the Duquette estate for a limited edition jewelry collaboration — a first for Duquette — that will launch at retail in February. Tony Duquette for Coach captures the designer’s signature flamboyance and taste for all things over-the-top at less shocking prices — everything is under $500.
Coach has done a few collaborations over the years, most recently with Lutz & Patmos and Net-a-Porter, but the Duquette partnership is interesting because this is Coach’s biggest jewelry endeavor yet, and Duquette’s baroque aesthetic is a step away from Coach’s classic, all-American look. Reed Krakoff, Coach’s president and executive creative director, said casual talks about the project began a few years ago when he met Wilkinson in the Hamptons at one of his signings (Wilkinson has authored two books on Duquette, “Tony Duquette” and “More Is More”).
“I see Tony Duquette as an American master,” said Krakoff. “Pairing this great, iconic American jeweler with Coach made a lot of sense. It’s always interesting to see Coach through a different lens.”
As for the design process, Wilkinson said he introduced the Coach team “to every nook and cranny of Tony’s world — his archives, his personal collections, his and his wife’s personal jewelry and wardrobe, and then turned them loose to do their thing with no strings attached,” Wilkinson explained. “The results were amazing.”
The collection consists of roughly 20 pieces done in 18-karat gold-plated brass with Swarovski crystals, hand-cut glass and semi-precious stones, including amethyst, rock crystal, malachite and rose quartz. There are bangles with sunburst clasps, a floral cabochon ring, a colorful bib necklace inspired by a bauble Duquette made for the Duchess of Windsor, as well as bejeweled evening bags. Fish are a major motif, as Dawnridge’s grounds include a very active koi pond. “The jeweled fish, the yellow gold plating, the massing of cabochons and faceted stones, the overscaled rings all scream ‘Duquette,’” said Wilkinson. “And a satin clutch even can be used to decorate a table top, which is exactly how Tony liked to display his pieces.”
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)