PARIS — Van Cleef & Arpels is expanding on the tradition of floral-themed collections with its new Cosmos line, which aims to give fresh impetus to its Between the Finger ring.
The jeweler launched the collection on Thursday night at an event at its boutique on Place Vendôme here, where the creations were shown in a first-floor salon alongside examples of previous floral designs such as the Frivole and Rose de Noël lines.
Available in two variations — either a combination of pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, or white gold, onyx and diamonds — the Cosmos line is inspired by a design from the Fifties and characterized by its four, heart-shaped petals, which bring to mind a four-leaf clover.
Nicolas Bos, chief executive officer of Van Cleef & Arpels, said the petal shape had become something of a house signature, appearing also in its high jewelry ranges. “The beauty and simplicity of a floral motif in jewelry resonates with pretty much every culture, whether it’s European, Asian and American,” he said.
“The interpretation of nature and flowers in jewelry always elicits a positive response, and then people’s reaction to the good-luck charm aspect varies according to their culture and their personal references,” Bos added.
Retail prices range from $13,000 for an onyx pendant that transforms into a clip to $22,100 for a mother-of-pearl Between the Finger ring. The collection also features earrings and traditional rings, both available in two sizes.
Van Cleef is positioning the line as a bridge between daywear collections like the Perlée and Alhambra lines and high-jewelry pieces.
“This is always a fairly difficult exercise, because like everything that is intermediary, it involves a very interesting exercise in how to bring complex shapes and techniques into pieces that are designed to be worn daily, that are not big pieces of high jewelry,” Bos noted.
The house said in order to bring the design to life, the petals come in subtly different sizes and are oriented to produce an asymmetric effect. At the center of each piece is a diamond ranging from 0.22 to 0.28 carats.
The advertising campaign will shine the spotlight on the Between the Finger rings, Bos said. “They are present in our collections in a variety of motifs, materials and prices, but we are realizing that beyond a circle of true fans of the house or jewelry connoisseurs, this is a very little-known concept,” he explained.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
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Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast