PARIS — Van Cleef & Arpels is expanding on the tradition of floral-themed collections with its new Cosmos line, which aims to give fresh impetus to its Between the Finger ring.
This story first appeared in the April 7, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The jeweler launched the collection on Thursday night at an event at its boutique on Place Vendôme here, where the creations were shown in a first-floor salon alongside examples of previous floral designs such as the Frivole and Rose de Noël lines.
Available in two variations — either a combination of pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, or white gold, onyx and diamonds — the Cosmos line is inspired by a design from the Fifties and characterized by its four, heart-shaped petals, which bring to mind a four-leaf clover.
Nicolas Bos, chief executive officer of Van Cleef & Arpels, said the petal shape had become something of a house signature, appearing also in its high jewelry ranges. “The beauty and simplicity of a floral motif in jewelry resonates with pretty much every culture, whether it’s European, Asian and American,” he said.
“The interpretation of nature and flowers in jewelry always elicits a positive response, and then people’s reaction to the good-luck charm aspect varies according to their culture and their personal references,” Bos added.
Retail prices range from $13,000 for an onyx pendant that transforms into a clip to $22,100 for a mother-of-pearl Between the Finger ring. The collection also features earrings and traditional rings, both available in two sizes.
Van Cleef is positioning the line as a bridge between daywear collections like the Perlée and Alhambra lines and high-jewelry pieces.
“This is always a fairly difficult exercise, because like everything that is intermediary, it involves a very interesting exercise in how to bring complex shapes and techniques into pieces that are designed to be worn daily, that are not big pieces of high jewelry,” Bos noted.
The house said in order to bring the design to life, the petals come in subtly different sizes and are oriented to produce an asymmetric effect. At the center of each piece is a diamond ranging from 0.22 to 0.28 carats.
The advertising campaign will shine the spotlight on the Between the Finger rings, Bos said. “They are present in our collections in a variety of motifs, materials and prices, but we are realizing that beyond a circle of true fans of the house or jewelry connoisseurs, this is a very little-known concept,” he explained.