MILAN — Tod’s chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle has big plans to expand the luxury brand and has tapped Alessandra Facchinetti as creative director.
The designer is to oversee the women’s accessories collections as well as expand its ready-to-wear division. The first collection under Facchinetti will bow for spring 2014 during Milan Fashion Week in September.
“This is a project about luxury and culture. It’s the right moment to further boost our products that are made in Italy, with a top designer,” said an upbeat Della Valle on Wednesday morning, dressed in a blue suit and tie, at the Tod’s offices here. “She is an excellent Italian designer who knows about Made in Italy. Her being Italian is an added asset, not a secondary one.”
“It’s a great opportunity and a challenge. I feel very confident; there are many elements that we share. I’ve always worked for companies paying attention to quality and luxury,” said Facchinetti a former Gucci and Valentino head designer.
A visibly pleased Facchinetti, all dressed in white, said she still has to familiarize herself with the archives and that it was too early to provide details about her plans for the brand. “Tod’s is a point of reference in its respect for Made in Italy production and I plan to bring my experience and Italian traits to the label,” said the designer.
While premature to talk about a potential runway show, both Facchinetti and Della Valle said they were looking at alternative solutions.
Facchinetti succeeds Derek Lam, who joined Tod’s in November 2006 and left last fall. But her remit is much broader than Lam’s, who did primarily capsule collections rather than the full line of rtw Facchinetti will design.
Tod’s is the leading brand under the Tod’s SpA group, which includes Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier. In 2012, the Tod’s brand remained the group’s core business, with sales of 569.7 million euros, or $729.2 million, up 16.8 percent from the year before.
Gains in Asia and the U.S. and a strong performance by the Tod’s and Roger Vivier brands contributed to a 7.8 percent rise in 2012 preliminary revenues, despite a drop in domestic sales.
In the period ended Dec. 31, the Italian luxury group posted preliminary sales of 963.1 million euros, or $1.23 billion, compared with 893.6 million euros, or $1.24 billion, in 2011.
Dollar amounts have been converted at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer.
There are 190 Tod’s-branded boutiques globally and the company plans to open three new units in São Paulo, Brazil; two in Japan’s Tokyo and Hiroshima, and in France’s Strasbourg and Bordeaux, and additional stores in China.
However, Della Valle stressed that, “in a commercial world, where everyone is rushing to open new stores, and grow quickly with big double-digit leaps, we are focused on luxury and exclusivity. Exclusivity is the dream.”
Speaking on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, Della Valle also took pains to talk about Milan and the need to create “at least one big event per season,” and strong exhibitions to boost the city’s appeal — a topic top of mind among designers and executives this season. “Fashion week is a product to sell, we need someone to sell it well. It’s time for leading individuals to make themselves available.”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)