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The Milan’s men’s shows featured a slew of accessories presentations. Here’s a roundup:
This story first appeared in the January 17, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Tod’s: Tod’s is taking the podium by launching a new project with that name, where lace-clasps and rubber tread soles, usually seen in technical footwear, are used for urban shoes. To further underscore its Made in Italy production, two artisans were on hand to demonstrate how luxurious hides are dyed with a manual process. To complete the collection, Tod’s presented the Double Stripe bag — each a unique model, as colorful strips of leather are hand-stitched onto shopping and travel bags.
Bally: Bally is on a mountain high as it marks the 60th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary’s ascent of Mount Everest with a collection that integrates performance details into everyday accessories. Creative directors Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz swiped bits of nonslip rubber sole from the underside of hiking boots and planted them on snazzy brogues in shades of brown or blue, and even replicated the boots that Bally made for Hillary’s sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, giving them a luxe spin, made from shaved reindeer fur and lined in cashmere. The lace-up boots are “as technical as a luxury brand can get. But these are more suited to Saint Moritz,” said Fidler.
Other pieces on offer included water-repellent suede jackets with cashmere linings — some inspired by the blouson style that Hillary wore for his ascent, hand-knit cashmere sweaters and leather mittens and hats covered or trimmed with shaggy marmot fur. The designers have also created a Bally Stripe capsule collection of unconstructed bags, with the brand’s signature stripe also made from leather.
Jimmy Choo: A happy hybrid of eye-popping color and classic shapes, the fall lineup ranged from loafers daubed with neon colors, inspired by Andy Warhol’s Shadow paintings, to duck boots lined in rabbit fur. The brand’s signature Sloane Slipper came in versions ranging from neon jacquard inspired by the signs outside an L.A. strip club, to black cavalry twill with a giant scorpion on each vamp made from bullion embroidery.
Valextra: Valextra chairman and chief executive officer Emanuele Carminati Molina wanted to convey a note of optimism, urging customers to “dream of desirable and precious objects.” Accordingly, the Italian luxury leather goods firm reinterpreted briefcases, totes and shopping bags in a new and soft suede leather in rich hues of ebony, caramel and loden.
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Church’s and Car Shoe: Church’s, owned by the Prada group, is ready for winter with classic derby shoes and brogues in grain calf leather and heavy soles.
Sister brand Car Shoe introduced a new slipper with pegged soles in a range of colors and materials, including soft camouflage pony. The toe features a logo with two racing flags, which underscores Car Shoe’s connection with the world of automobiles.
Hogan: Casual business was the leitmotif at Hogan, as president Andrea Della Valle said this was “a nonconventional formal collection for a man at ease with himself,” where innovation and technology contribute to achieve feather-light lace-up shoes, pumps and sneakers in brushed and coated leathers in ink-blue, moss-green, charcoal and black.
Bruno Magli: Creative director Max Kibardin injected an eccentric touch into his Gregory Peck-inspired sophisticated collection, expanding it with a lineup of smalld leather goods. Classic bicolor polished leather loafers with a rubber sole were juxtaposed with more eccentric, but not over-the top, styles, such as soft calfskin Chelsea boots with a metallic, shiny effect, along with glossy crocodile derby shoes.
Fratelli Rossetti: While loyal to its classic and elegant tradition, the company raised the contemporary element with six hammered leather styles, including a new boot with double buckles and laces.
Antonio Marras + Piquadro: Antonio Marras chose the 18th-century Palazzo Clerici to present the capsule collection he designed for Italian luggage and accessories company Piquadro. The Sardinian designer used his arty touch to inject a new spin into high-tech, functional pieces, including a checkered carry-on, which can be used as a backpack, and a soft leather weekend bag with a camouflage pattern.
Santoni: Classic yet not conservative, Santoni’s designs for fall blended inspirations from the Twenties with more contemporary and urban rounded shapes and a dandy elegance. Santoni added a twist to its signature double buckle pump with a colorful palette that includes blue, green, burgundy and various shades of brown. For evening, the style went precious, with luxury materials such as crocodile, or velvet and patent in total black.
For fall, the Italian luxury footwear firm introduced Santoni Escape, a new sneaker concept consisting of a hand-stitched Chelsea boot with a sporty and technical sole in feather- light and flexible rubber.