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This story first appeared in the June 29, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
MILAN — Favoring tradition, Italian accessories brands revisited historical designs or opted for aged calfskin fashioned into more modern and elongated shapes during the men’s shows last week.
Gladiator sandals, sneakers and bright flashes of color lightened up the mood for leisure time.
Tod’s penchant for the traditional and classic took a nautical turn this season. Among the styles that comfortably navigated work and play were pebble- and full-rubber soled boat shoes, nylon and leather yacht bags and treated cotton duffels, alongside a panoply of dressy sneakers in suede or vegetable-dyed calf and even black patent leather.
Sergio Rossi creative director Francesco Russo experimented with deconstructed uppers, uberflexible soles and finishes with a high-gloss, crystalline effect.
“I am interested in the evolution of the product, for a timeless collection based on tradition,” Russo said.
In the ongoing collaboration with Puma, Sergio Rossi went Eighties streetwear, with a graffiti scale print on white, black or lime green sneakers.
Similarly, Bronx-based graffiti artist Tats Cru injected a dose of cool into Hogan by customizing white leather sneakers and messenger bags set to be auctioned for charity. The brand also unveiled Olympia 3000, an urban style canvas-and-leather sneaker with a sleeker shape.
Alexander McQueen’s Puma collection was inspired by martial arts and showcased multicolored sneakers wrapped in cagelike structures.
Prada-owned Car Shoe launched its first pebble-soled, monogram and made-to-measure sneaker available in hundreds of color combinations and embellished with initials or numbers.
Church’s, also controlled by Prada, presented its staple laced Oxford-style Pembrey shoes in a summery off white. A fun colorful sole in rubber or leather also added a touch of modernity.
The firm also reedited its classic 1929 Shanghai pump with a fringed vamp that replicates the original model with distressed leather. Scratches are even added to the sole.
Besides a new white sneaker with the American flag dedicated to President Obama, Cesare Paciotti showed laser-cut calf moccasins in dusty azures. Calf was also treated to look like elephant hide or had a sequined pattern. A company spokesman said “minimalist materials contrasted with the opulence of the embellishments.” Satin was widely treated, perforated, with a shiny or vintage effect for luxurious pumps.
Men’s travel or messenger bags were also designed with vintage-looking hides and in oversize shapes.
At Furla, team designer Alessandro Fumagalli went either Seventies hippy with crinkled shearling messenger bags or more urban with Fifties alligator-printed calf in earthy tones.
Valextra launched an ergonomic backpack in the new color of the season — clay.
Shirò opted for more exuberant hues, showing crocodile, ostrich or python deconstructed bags in fluorescent colors.