Technical and cosmetic innovations will abound this year at Switzerland's watch fairs in Basel and Geneva, with tourbillons continuing to garner a fair amount of top watchmakers' attention.
Corum will give a new twist to the mechanism with its Golden Tourbillon Panoramique, which holds the fabled movement in a case
of clear glass. Eighteen months were needed to develop the mechanism, which requires three weeks to be assembled and adjusted. The watch boasts a 90-hour power reserve. Production is limited to 99 pieces.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a tourbillon to its AMVOX line, which is a partnership between the fabled manufacturer and British luxury carmaker Aston Martin. The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT blends tradition with technology by housing the movement in a ceramic case. Materials such as carbon fiber, platinum and iridium alloys, and tiny ceramic ball bearings were used to reduce the watches' weight and girth.
Chopard has filed two patent applications for an innovative high-frequency escapement that is capable of reaching a cadence of 8 to 10 hertz. The higher the frequency of balance oscillations, the more accurately the watch will run. Traditional mechanical watches have a frequency of 4 hertz, or four oscillations per second. So vibrations per hour more than double and the space between seconds will take five-hundredths of a second.
Piaget has a Polo Tourbillon Relatif with a flying tourbillon that circles around the watch once an hour. The watch is designed as a tribute to Paris, with monuments like the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower engraved onto the case. Zenith, for its part, is showing off its prowess with tourbillon that offers a moon phase, date and chronograph.
Two of horology's most august names have significant technological introductions. Breguet is offering the Classique 5447, with a perpetual calendar and minute repeaters. The minute repeater has been improved to produce a more sonorous sound. The movement is entirely hand-engraved with a complex retrograde jumping-month mechanism.
Patek Philippe is unveiling its World Time watch ref. 5131, with a mechanism that allows for the permanent display of all 24 time zones. On a cosmetic level, the cloisonné enamel dial highlights Patek's decorative prowess. Fawaz Gruosi, the owner of de Grisogono, continues to make bold statements with his watches. This year, he has created a mechanical digital watch inspired by fast-running computer clocks."My office was crazy when I told them my idea," said Gruosi, who pushed his team to make the watch, which he calls Meccanico. "Ours has 650 pieces, but with only one complication."
Van Cleef & Arpels is also striving to find new applications for mechanical complications. After introducing its so-called "poetic" complications last year for women, this year the jeweler has come up with a poetic complication for men: a watch with a face representing the nighttime sky over Paris' Place Vendôme. It rotates according to the date to give an accurate representation of the firmament.
Tag Heuer is introducing the Grand Carrera series of watches that plays on its heritage in motor racing. At the top of the line is the Grand Carrera Calibre 17 RS2 chronograph. The piece, limited to a production of 1,000 pieces, offers twin rotating systems in a sleek and lightweight titanium case.
And Bulgari is offering a new Diagono Calibro 303 in honor of the 20th anniversary of the watch style.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)