By  on August 10, 2007

PARIS — With its new fragrance Jil Sander Man due out this fall, the Jil Sander fashion house and its beauty license holder Coty Inc. want to bulk up the brand's scent business for men, especially in the high-end segment.

The fragrance is the first to be conceived with Jil Sander's creative director Raf Simons.

"It encapsulates the vision and values of the Jil Sander brand," said Françoise Mariez, senior vice president of international European marketing licenses of Coty Prestige, a division of Coty Inc. She calls the "Jil Sander man" one who's "very refined," "elegant" yet "not formal."

Simons found the process of conceiving a fragrance "much more abstract" than the method of creating a clothing line. He chose to make Jil Sander Man "masculine" and "fresh" but not in a traditional manner.

Firmenich's Thierry Vasseur and Annick Menardo concocted the fragrance. The juice includes top notes of fresh lavender, zest of bergamot and violet; heart notes of sage, Artemisia and vetiver, and base notes of blue cedar and Russian leather.

The Jil Sander Man bottle was created by Simons with Patrick Veillet. They took inspiration form the minimalist works of John MacCracken and Donald Judd, plus the Jil Sander Number 4 fragrance bottle from yesteryear.

"I wanted a cube on a cube," said Simons. "I didn't want to have a bottle with a gap; gaps are often distracting to me."

So, instead, there is a fine metallic line separating the two cubes, which are of a deep blue.

"It's the darkest blue before black," continued Mariez, who explained it's a signature Jil Sander color.

Jil Sander Man's advertising campaign, featuring model Robert Perovich with an intense gaze, was shot by Willy Vanderperre. It will appear in single and double pages.

Sampling for Jil Sander Man will include 2.5-ml. miniatures.

The fragrance is to first be introduced in September in Jil Sander boutiques worldwide, plus German-speaking countries, the Netherlands and Eastern Europe, as well as its travel-retail doors. There will be a wider rollout following.Industry sources estimate the fragrance will ring up $25 million at retail in the first 12 months.

The Jil Sander Man lineup includes 30-, 50- and 90-ml. eau de parfum sprays for 40 euros, or $54.75, 50 euros, or $68.45, and 67 euros, or $91.70, respectively. A 200-ml. hair and body shampoo will be 22 euros, or $30.10; a 50-ml. aftershave splash, 34 euros, or $46.55; a 125-ml. spray deodorant, 23 euros, or $31.50, and a 75-g. stick deodorant, 22 euros, or $30.10.

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