As designers were putting the finishing touches on their fall collections this week, work was just beginning on another front: figuring out the beauty looks. While makeup artists are famous for being quick-change artists, fashion week forces that...
As designers were putting the finishing touches on their fall collections this week, work was just beginning on another front: figuring out the beauty looks. While makeup artists are famous for being quick-change artists, fashion week forces that ability to a whole new level — beauty tests, when hair and makeup looks are presented to a designer, nearly always take place just days before models march down the catwalk.
While it’s safe in any season to bet that you’ll see red lips, lip gloss and plenty of black mascara, there’s a real movement toward color on other parts of the face — a bold eye shadow, a flush of blush, a shimmery eyeliner. But don’t expect the clown-like looks this time around.
“The looks coming up are very easy to translate into ‘street’ makeup, something an actual consumer would wear,” said Gordon Espinet, executive director of makeup artistry for MAC Cosmetics. The company, a backstage powerhouse, will do upward of 40 shows — including Zac Posen, Catherine Malandrino, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera — in New York alone this season.
“You see brights like violet, pink and peach, but they are sheer and wearable, and worn with earthier colors,” Espinet continued. “Inspiration is coming from all eras, from the Fifties to the early Eighties. And there’s a movement toward playing up your makeup — not to mention using multiple products like a few eye shadows, eyeliner, multiple shades of blush. It’s about letting your inner child out.”
Here, just a few of the looks that were planned:
“The makeup tests for the Hollywould show took me back to why I started in this career,” said MAC’s Espinet. “Holly [Dunlap, the line’s creator and owner] pulled out old Vogue covers and photos from Scavullo shoots, and it all came rushing back — lots of mascara, multiple eye shadow colors. Sort of rebellious with a touch of classic. I think that ultimately, this season is going to be about full-on makeup — lots of color, with natural, healthy, flawless skin.”
“For the Marc Bouwer show, the setting is a Thirties nightclub re-created at Cipriani’s,” said Gina Brooke of Caliente Beauty LA, the key artist for Bouwer’s show on Wednesday. The show’s makeup sponsor is Shu Uemura. “Eyes are the focus — dramatic and luxurious. The trend is a new take on the smoky eye moving away from black and gray and instead using Shu Uemura’s new chocolate eye shadow with bronze and gold highlights. To add period glamour, custom Shu Uemura false lashes are also applied. The cheek is a very soft amber to give subtle definition, and the lips are a rich eggplant with high shine to match a luminous skin created using Shu Uemura’s new fall cream cheek shimmer.”But will it play in Peoria? With a few adaptations, yes: “The look can be translated into a more wearable look with a tighter smoky eye using the same chocolates and gold shades,” said Brooke. “The lips become more sheer using an eggplant gloss while the skin stays luminous with a touch of gold as a highlight.”
“The fall season will bring an autumnal shower of lush green shades with rich, velvety texture,” said Polly Osmond of Art Department, who is doing shows both here and abroad, including several for Shu Uemura. “Forest wood tones of brown and darker gray and silver shadow bring mystery and intrigue to the eyes.”
Paul Starr, who will be the key makeup artist at Sass & Bide on Monday and will use Estée Lauder’s new fall color story to create the looks, is betting on a simple formula: smoky blue eyes and nude, fleshy lips.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)