By  on February 15, 2016

Backstage at the Altuzarra, the beauty look was heightened natural, save for eight girls chosen to display graphic eyeliner looks inspired by Picasso. "Makeup is very simple. It's skin, a little bit of eyebrow [and] a contour," lead makeup artist Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics noted. With temperatures in New York verging on a freezing, Pecheux was tasked with prepping super-dehydrated skin before he started on makeup. "The skin is reacting very bad to the weather," he said. "The girls are so, so dry." After layers of moisturizer carefully massaged onto the face, Pecheux dabbed MAC Mineralize Foundation where needed, and brushed Sculpting Powder on cheekbones for a light contouring effect. He filled in eyebrows with various brown shadows by MAC, and brushed hair up in light, individual strokes. He used Retro Black Fluidline Pen, a liquid liner, to create cubic eyeliner looks on eight different girls. Pecheux varied his technique for each girl — some were given more psychedelic, curved lines, while with others he kept straight. "It's very conceptual, but very organic," said Pecheux. Odile Gilbert led hair for Kérastase. The look was natural curls, waves and bends, and the work would have been smooth sailing had several of the models not arrived with freshly bleached strands from the Alexander Wang show a few hours prior. In concession, Gilbert went easy on the hot tools, only briefly touching up curls on girls with naturally curly hair. "Everybody is different," said the hair stylist in her thick French accent. "Sometimes in shows everyone has to look the same, but today we're working with individuality." She started with damp hair, applying Kérastase L'Incroyable Blowdry Lotion, out in May, for moisture and heat protection, and lightly dried strands with a diffuser for a tousled natural texture. For girls with straight or naturally wavy hair, she applied Mousse Bouffante for added texture and volume on the ends before blow-drying. Curl Fever, a holding gel, was applied to girls with natural curly hair. All styles were topped  off with Laque Dentelle, a flexible finishing spray. The nail look by Julie Kandalec for Essie was a sheer light pink, created by layering Sugar Daddy, a shimmery pink, over Limo-scene, a sheer pink.

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